Here are just a few of the hundreds of pets from all over the United States featured in Petfinder.com’s gallery who need forever homes.

1. Sugar Plum: She Has More to Love

Sugar Plum, an adult hound mix from McArthur, Calif., is a sweetheart who is up to date on her vaccinations. She is also microchipped and housetrained. She needs to lose weight, so she needs an owner who will take her on lots of walks and put her on a diet.

2. Abigail: She Struggles With Asthma

Abigail is a beautiful Himalayan in Cedaredge, Colo., who would like to curl up in your lap. Due to a health condition similar to asthma, she has to take 2.5 mg of prednisolone every other day. Thankfully, this medication is inexpensive and easy to administer.

3. Pancake: Has Some Health Issues

Pancake is an American Staffordshire mix from Georgetown, Del., who was rescued while she was pregnant with a litter of pups. Sadly, she was used as a breeding machine and has some scars to prove it. Now Pancake is spayed and is as friendly as her big, somewhat lopsided smile.

4. Frankie: Needs to Eat Gluten Free

Frankie is a 5-year-old purebred Yellow Lab from Antioch, Ill. He will make a great family dog because he loves people and playing with other dogs and cats. Frankie has a very sensitive stomach, so he needs to be on a gluten-free diet.

5. Steve: a Rambunctious Pointer

Steve, a Pointer mix from Winnsboro, La., is so full of energy that he sometimes forgets his manners and will jump on you, not realizing how big he is. He gets very depressed if left alone, so he’ll need another dog as a companion.

6. Christopher: Senior Cat Loves to Cuddle

Christopher is a senior white cat from Norwood, Mass., who wants to cuddle and be your friend. Should a senior citizen on a fixed income adopt him, that person won’t have to pay a penny for veterinary care, thanks to the generous donors at Neponset Valley Humane Society.

7. Teddy: a Lovable Pup With a Disability

Teddy is a Pug/Boston Terrier mix from Penn Yan, N.Y. Due to negligent owners who turned him into the shelter with untreated glaucoma, he’s blind in both eyes. But he doesn’t let his inability to see stop him from playing with toys and accepting belly rubs.

8. Jake: Sheltie Needs Some Extra Care

Friendly and energetic, Jake is a 1-year-old Sheltie from Bath, Mich., who suffers from a genetic condition called dermatomyositis, which causes hair loss. The disease is not contagious, but the dog needs medication for the rest of his life.

9. Kayli: She’s Looking for a Loving Companion

Kayli, a Calico mix, came to Another Chance Cat Adoption in Des Moines, Wash., unable to walk and very depressed. One day a woman named Dorothy, who also had trouble walking, visited and they became fast friends. The powerful bond had a healing effect, as Dorothy eventually no longer needed her walker and Kayli became less depressed and responded well to laser treatments. Sadly, Dorothy died in May, and Kayli needs a new best friend.

10. Barney: a Three-Legged Dynamo

Barney is a German Shepherd/Lab mix puppy from Little Rock, Ark. One day when he was eating breakfast, he got into a fight with a bigger dog and his leg was so injured that it had to be amputated. Barney bounced right back after his surgery and was soon looking for a big bowl of dog food to devour.

For more information about Adopt-a-Less-Adoptable-Pet Week and to see more pets who are greatly in need of families, visit petfinder.com/lessadoptablepetweek.You can also go to Petfinder.com and type in your zip code to find adoptable pets at a shelter or rescue group near you.

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Yes, this dog’s ears hang low. Yes they wobble to and fro. But don’t even suggest tying them in a knot or tying them in a bow. That’s just wrong.

But you can celebrate Harbor, the 8-year-old Black and Tan Coonhound who recently earned a spot in the Guinness Book of World Records for having the “Longest Ears on a Living Dog.”

The pooch, who hails from Boulder, Colo., boasts enormous ears — his right ear measures 13.5 inches and the left, 12.25 inches. And while they’ve brought Harbor and his family a bit of fame, they were troublesome for him when he was little, often causing him to trip and tumble down the stairs. Even now, according to Guinness, his unusually long ears cause problems, as strangers try to come up and give them a tug.

https://youtu.be/cwxX13qG2d8Harbor isn’t the only dog to have sported such big ears. Tigger, a Bloodhound from Illinois who died in 2009, had a right ear measuring 13.5 inches and a left measuring 13.75 inches, winning him the title of “Longest Dog Ears” ever.

“Guinness World Records 2012,” featuring Harbor and plenty of other record-breaking animals, will be available in the U.S. on September 15th, and a 2012 eBook version is scheduled to launch on November 28th.

All featured products are chosen at the discretion of the Vetstreet editorial team and do not reflect a direct endorsement by the author. However, Vetstreet may make a small affiliate commission if you click through and make a purchase.

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Traveling with a dog has never been easier, thanks to innovations in medicine, safety and convenience. Here’s an overview of what you need to pack up before taking your pet on the road.

1. Get the Medicine Right

During car trips, many dogs become either anxious, nauseated or both, and for those dogs, talking to your veterinarian about medication before you go will make the trip easier on you both. Ask about medications that help reduce vomiting as well as help with the issues that go along with or precede vomiting such as excessive drooling. An anti-anxiety medication can help as well. Your veterinarian can help select the right medication for your dog, and also advise you if medication is not the best option for your pet.

Of course, you’ll also want a supply of any medication your pet’s regularly on, along with pill pockets or whatever you use to get the pills in your pet (and don’t forget to follow with water to prevent the pill from sticking in your pet’s throat). Ask your veterinarian if there should be changes in your pet’s medicines while you travel, and if pills need to be taken with food or on an empty stomach.

Above all be sure to secure all medicines – your pet’s and yours, too – while you’re on the road to keep pets from being poisoned by pills not meant for them or too many of those that are. And don’t forget to pick up a first-aid kit, and program your cell phone with emergency numbers for your pet’s needs as well as your own.

2. Secure Your Dog

Forget having your dog ride shotgun with his head out the window. Safety experts now advise that dogs be secured in the vehicle in a crate or car-harness. There are a variety of travel crates available that can contain your dog in your car including hard-sided crates, soft-sided travel bags and even soft-sided containment tubes.

If you have a big dog and a small car, a crate likely isn’t an option. Fortunately, the last few years have seen many companies develop car-harness restraints that are not only comfortable for your dog but also work with your vehicle’s seat belts or child-seat anchors.

While barriers have long been popular in wagons, vans and SUVs, many barriers crumble or collapse under the forward impact of a dog in a crash. If you choose a barrier, be sure it can be secured to the car’s frame and is sturdy enough to hold up in an accident. If not, use a crate or a seat-belt harness.

You’ll also need to be sure you have a comfortable, slip-proof collar or harness, and that you have an ID tag with your cell phone number attached. If you have your dog micro-chipped (and you should!) make sure your pet’s chip is registered and the information is current. Bring along a short leash so you can more easily control your dog in unfamiliar surroundings.

3. Select Products for Travel Ease and Comfort

Pet-supply retailers have a incredible array of travel gear for pets, from travel beds and seat covers to collapsible bowls to special luggage designed to hold everything a pet needs to travel – including, if the dog is tiny, the dog himself. Check out the offerings to choose what’s best for your pet, and ask your veterinarian if you have any questions.

Once you have all the gear you need, hit the road! You’ll find yourself in good company, with more people than ever who’d never dream of taking a vacation while leaving the dog behind.

This article has been reviewed by a Veterinarian.

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Cats may refuse to use the litterbox if something about it is unappealing. If you are having trouble litterbox training your cat, let your veterinarian know.

Basic Training

Cats are usually easy to litterbox train because they are naturally clean and prefer to bury their waste. First, make sure that your cat knows where the litterbox is. Confine your cat to a small area or room with clean water, fresh food, and a clean litterbox until he or she is successfully using the litterbox and seems comfortable. Do not use a covered litterbox during the training period because it might complicate the process. If your cat urinates or defecates outside the litterbox, place the waste in the litterbox; the smell should help your cat find and use the litterbox in the future. If your cat isn’t using the litterbox after a day or two, do the following: After your cat eats, place him or her in the litterbox, and briefly scratch the litter with your finger. However, don’t force your cat to stay in the litterbox; you don’t want your cat to have a negative experience in the litterbox.

Reasons a Cat Won’t Use the Litterbox

Cats may refuse to use the litterbox if something about it is unappealing. If your cat won’t use the litterbox, try addressing the following bulleted list, but do not punish your cat. He or she may have a medical or behavior problem that your veterinarian can address.

The type of litter is unappealing. Most cats prefer an unscented, scoopable (sandlike) litter. Many owners also prefer scoopable litters because they control odors and absorb liquid (clump) well.

The litterbox location is unappealing. Most cats prefer a quiet place with several escape routes. Keep your cat’s food dishes as far as possible from the litterbox.

The litterbox is dirty. Scoop it out at least twice daily, add new litter as needed, and wash the box with baking soda or an unscented soap and fill it with clean litter once a week.

The litterbox is too small.

The litterbox has a liner or hood, which some cats dislike.

The litterbox isn’t easily accessible.

There aren’t enough litterboxes. Provide one litterbox per cat, plus one extra box.

There’s too much litter in the litterbox. Most cats prefer the litter to be 1 to 2 inches deep.

If you are having trouble litterbox training your cat, let your veterinarian know.

Cleanup

Do not clean up your cat’s “accidents” with an ammonia-based cleanser. Because urine contains ammonia, cleaning with an ammonia-based product could tempt your cat to urinate in the same spot again. Instead, use a product specifically for cleaning pet accidents.

This article has been reviewed by a Veterinarian.

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While 68 percent of our presidents have owned dogs, and 20 percent of them have had cats, other animals have also lived at 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue — like canaries, goats, horses and even cows.

Exotic animals have also played a part in White House history, including President Theodore Roosevelt’s menagerie of lions, zebras and bears. President James Buchanan was gifted a herd of elephants from the King of Siam, but the pachyderms never roamed the South Lawn. There are, however, more than 70,000 bees currently taking up residence in a hive on the storied lawn.

Want to learn more about the fascinating lives of presidential pets throughout history? Check out Vetstreet.com’s infographic below or go to this link and click on image to view a larger version of the graphic.

About Vetstreet.com

Vetstreet.com is the largest growing pet content site on the web, with over 130,000 Facebook fans. The site is dedicated to providing pet owners with the most accurate information possible for keeping their dogs and cats healthy.

The articles are written, developed and reviewed by leading veterinarians, professional journalists and animal health experts in order to deliver the most current advice on everything from finding the right puppy or kitten to dealing with serious medical conditions.

To learn more about Vetstreet, visit us at www.vetstreet.com or connect with us on Facebook, Twitter and YouTube.

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They generally don’t like to cuddle, and they certainly can’t go fetch, but snakes can make great pets for some people. As with any pet, owning a snake requires commitment and care. Take this short true-or-false quiz to find out if you are that special person ready to have a snake slither into your life.

1. Snakes are slimy, dangerous creatures.

False. Contrary to popular belief, snakes are clean, smooth, dry-skinned animals that usually pose no danger to people if they are fed well and housed properly. There are more than 2,700 species of snakes in the world. Of these, only about 375 are venomous. In most states, it is against the law for anyone except a licensed herpetologist to keep poisonous or venomous snakes in captivity.

2. A boa constrictor makes a good pet.

True. Boa constrictors can make great pets in the right circumstances. Snakes are generally not recommended for families with small children. The most common snakes kept as pets are the constrictor species (boas, pythons, rat snakes and milk snakes) and the racer, gopher and garter species. The best snakes for a beginner include the king snake and the corn snake, because of their gentle nature. Pet snakes should always be obtained by a pet store or breeder and not taken from the wild. Keeping a wild snake captive is actually against the law. When deciding on a snake, prospective owners must take into consideration the space requirements, as well as light and heat requirements. Some species can grow up to 10 feet long.

3. Snakes require relatively little living space.

True. Because of their limited and nonexertional activity, snakes do not need a large enclosure. The size of the enclosure should allow for the inclusion of a privacy box and water source and still allow room for the snake to stretch out and move about. An aquarium is the best house for a snake, because it allows the pet owner to see the snake, and the glass or plexiglass helps maintain the required temperature and humidity level. Like Houdini, many snakes are able to slither out of apparently secure enclosures, so any snake enclosure must have a secure top and be escape proof.

4. Snakes will eat anything.

False. All snakes are carnivores and consume a variety of items, including rodents, birds, frogs and other reptiles. Snakes eat their food whole and are able to consume food three times larger than the diameter of their head, because a snake’s lower jaw can separate from its upper jaw.

Because frightened prey may attack, pet snakes should be fed dead or incapacitated prey whenever possible to avoid injury to the snake. Live rodents fed to snakes commonly bite them and can inflict serious injury. Therefore, pet owners must be comfortable with keeping dead animals in their freezer that can be thawed and warmed up before feeding. Most snakes need to be fed only once every one to two weeks, and water should be available at all times. Food can be purchased through a reptile veterinarian or reptile supply store.

5. Pet snakes require little care.

False. Although snakes don’t run around the yard and play like dogs and cats, they still require a great deal of commitment from their owners. They need exercise and should be given adequate tank space to move around. Snakes have unique dietary, housing and veterinary needs, including heat and humidity requirements, and should be kept only by people who are committed to understanding and meeting those needs. Many snakes also live a long time —10 to 40 years — so commitment to long-term care is necessary.

6. Snakes need regular veterinary care just like other pets.

True. A thorough veterinary evaluation of any new snake is essential. Newly acquired snakes often have one or more health problems, such as malnutrition or intestinal parasites. It is also important for pet snakes to undergo yearly routine veterinary exams for disease prevention.

More on Vetstreet:

• Meet the Friendliest Exotic Pets Around
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Half the fun of having a puppy is touching, holding and cuddling with him, and these are all good things for puppy development — as long as they’re done right. This means doing things gently, so your puppy feels safe whatever you’re doing with him. He should know from a young age that human hands are givers of food, toys, treats, petting and security.

Handling Exercises

The breeder should have started early by handling the puppies even just a few minutes each day. Studies have shown that puppies who are handled from birth grow up to handle stress better as adults. As soon as you get your puppy, you want to start getting him used to being lifted and held, and to having various parts of his body touched by you.

Choose a time when he’s calm; otherwise handling exercises will quickly deteriorate into play fighting and wrestling exercises. Hold him on your lap and let him calm down there. Then touch his feet, spreading each foot briefly to look between the toes. Praise him calmly for being good. If he protests, you may have to start more slowly, when he’s sleepier or by just touching each foot. Touch his ears, and look inside each ear. Lift his lips, then open his mouth. Rub your fingers along his gums. Lift his tail. Use a soft brush to gently go over his body. These exercises are important for when you need to trim his nails, examine his feet, examine his ears, administer ear drops, examine his mouth, brush his teeth, give pills, take his temperature or groom him. Repeat this every day, sometimes giving treats for especially cooperative behavior.

Start with very short sessions where you don’t go over him as thoroughly as you eventually will. You want him to succeed, not to learn that if he struggles and squirms enough he can get away. Let him learn that if he’s calm he’ll get treats and praise. Gradually increase the time of each session and the thoroughness of the handling. Having other family members and friends participate can be helpful. Remember, you’ll also want your puppy to cooperate for the veterinarian or groomer.

If he objects to being handled, try to find some sort of handling he enjoys, such as being stroked on the head or under the chin, and intersperse it with his less favored exercises. For example, stroke his head three times, lift his ear, give a treat, stroke his head five times, touch his lip, and so on, giving a treat now and then for good behavior.

Your ultimate goal is to progress to procedures you’ll need to do to him as an adult. For example, to trim his nails you’ll go from touching his feet to also spreading his toes, then touching each toe nail, then touching the nails with a clipper, then cutting off a tiny nail tip. Give a treat after each nail and you’ll have a dog wishing he had more toes.

Food Bowl Exercises

Puppies can be possessive about their food, especially if they’ve come from a competitive litter. But this is not acceptable behavior for your puppy to exhibit now that he’s in your home, and especially not toward humans.

Owners sometimes create a perfect war that never had to happen because of some idea they will train their dog to allow food to be taken away by repeatedly taking the dog’s food away. What does this accomplish? The dog comes to dread the jerk who keeps interrupting his meal, and finally growls to tell him what he thinks of it. The owner says, “Aha! I knew he was a biter!” and now punishes the dog. The dog, already irritated or fearful, may take the next step and bite. The owner decides the dog can’t be trusted and may punish him more until the dog finally subdues, but doesn’t forget. He allows the owner to continue with his irritating tests and doesn’t protest, until one day a visiting child reaches innocently for his bowl, and the dog lashes out at this new food stealer.

A better scheme is to convince the dog that hands near his food are bringers, not takers. As he is eating, drop a few special treats into his bowl. If you must take his bowl away, wait until the bowl is empty, then replace it immediately, complete with a few more treats. Convince him that you never take away anything unless you replace it with something better, and he’ll soon be begging for you to come near his food bowl.

Dogs who are aggressive to other dogs that come near their food should simply be fed away from other dogs. They should only be given chewies in a private room or in their crate. Never allow a treat to be abandoned in the house somewhere to cause a later dispute, perhaps when you are gone.

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Some people have preconceived ideas about ferrets, many of which simply are not true — or at least not the whole truth. If you have ever thought about sharing your space with a ferret, take this quiz to learn some interesting facts about this furry fellow.

Take Our Ferret Quiz

1. True or false: Ferrets are not very smart.

False. Quite the opposite is true — ferrets are highly intelligent animals. They can learn surprisingly quickly and are quite trainable. Most ferrets can be trained to come when called, do tricks and use a litterbox.

2. True or false: Ferrets are antisocial.

False. Ferrets are generally playful, affectionate pets, although they do have moments when they act more independent. When they reach adulthood (at 1 year old), most ferrets will try to gain your approval and spend a lot of time hanging around you and following you around.

3. True or false: Ferrets get into everything.

True. It does seem like ferrets get into everything — sometimes even if you think they can’t. For instance, things that are childproof most likely are not ferret-proof. Ferrets are curious and intelligent. Many can open drawers and cabinets, unscrew bottle tops and unzip zippers. If a ferret’s head fits into or through something, his body will probably fit, too. Expect to make slight modifications to your home, such as removing plants to prevent digging and adding plastic or wooden runners under carpeted doorways to discourage tunneling.

4. True or false: Ferrets bite everyone and everything.

False. Ferrets sometimes nip as part of playing. They tend to exhibit this rough play with other ferrets, but if their only playmate is you, they may bite you at first. Luckily, since ferrets are such smart creatures, they can often be trained to lessen this behavior.

5.  True or false: Ferrets are hostile toward children.

False. As a rule, ferrets are not inherently hostile toward anyone, and they certainly do not go around attacking children. However, it probably is not a good idea to get a ferret if you have an infant or young child (under about 8 years old). Even a well-taught, well-meaning child might inadvertently squeeze a ferret a little too hard and injure the animal’s delicate back, or harm him unintentionally in some other way. And ferrets, similar to dogs and cats, may bite if they are being hurt. 

6. True or false: Ferrets have a peculiar smell.

True. Ferrets do have a distinctive musky odor. Even spayed or neutered, ferrets will retain that odor, although it will not be quite as strong. Ferrets do not need frequent bathing, but some owners bathe monthly. Changing their bedding frequently (at least weekly) will help diminish odors overall.

7. True or false: Ferrets sleep a lot.

True. While ferrets do sleep a lot — and quite soundly — they also love to run around. Ferrets are extremely active creatures and need to have time out of their cages — supervised, of course, to discourage inappropriate chewing and other mischief. Contrary to another popular belief, ferrets are not nocturnal. They may spend 75 percent of their time sleeping, but they tend to be active otherwise and can adapt over time to your schedule.

8. True or false: Ferrets need regular veterinary care.

True. Just like many other pets, ferrets need to receive vaccinations and routine veterinary exams, and should be spayed or neutered. Your veterinarian can help you learn more about these interesting pets.

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