Cat Training Archives - Vetstreet

5 Cat Training Mistakes: Guilty of Any?

Mikkel Becker — Wed, 21 Sep 2022 18:32:07 +0000

Training a cat might sound impossible, but it’s not — cats are smart, and with the right approach you can frequently channel their intelligence in productive ways.

Training a cat often seems harder than it really is, particularly if small missteps are hindering success. As a trainer, I see cat owners make the same training mistakes over and over. Let’s talk about how to avoid five common errors and get your cat’s training back on track.

5 Mistakes to Stop Making

1. Overestimating how much time training takes.
Many cat owners assume that training a feline takes a significant amount of time and effort. The reality is that cats learn best in short training sessions, typically one to five minutes, spread out through the day. There’s also no need to schedule specific blocks of time to train your cat; instead, make use of small windows of downtime — while you’re waiting for the coffee to brew, for example, or for the kids to brush their teeth — to work with your cat. Finally, training is typically most successful when it is incorporated into already existing everyday interactions like mealtime.

2. Ignoring the good behavior and rewarding the bad.
When your cat does what you want him to do — uses his scratching post, for example — you probably take it for granted. But as soon as he digs his claws into the sofa, you react, most likely by scolding him or shooing him away or interacting with him in some other way. This teaches your cat that scratching the sofa — not his scratching post — earns him your attention, so he keeps doing it. Help put a stop to unwanted behavior by flipping your response: Reward what your cat does right and ignore or redirect him when he does something you’d rather not see. Give your cat praise and petting when he uses his scratching post; when he claws the sofa, redirect him and reward him once he’s scratching in the right place.

3. Attempting to eliminate instinctive behaviors.
Many behaviors humans find undesirable, like clawing, pouncing, jumping or climbing, are natural for a cat. Attempts to eliminate these behaviors can be highly stressful for your cat — and they almost never succeed. A better approach is to redirect these behaviors to spaces in your home where they are acceptable. Cat shelving, perches and trees are useful for felines who like to explore high places, while a box or laundry basket can offer a secure place for your cat to relax. Encourage your cat to explore these alternatives by luring him with treats, catnip, toys and petting. Reward him for following his instincts only in the designated areas.

4. Expecting your cat to listen without training.

Your cat’s not ignoring you — he doesn’t instinctively know what you’re asking him to do or why it’s worth doing. Don’t assume that words like “off,” “down” and “stop” mean anything to your cat simply because you say them all the time. If you want your cat to get off the counter, you will need to use positive reinforcement — not punishment — to teach him what “off” means. You will also need to teach him an alternative behavior, like going to his bed or cat tree, to replace the one you are asking him to stop doing. Be patient: With practice, he will learn that “off” means he should abandon the counter and go to his bed — and that doing so will earn him a treat of some sort.

5. Setting unrealistic training goals.

Every cat learns at his own pace: One cat might learn how to get in and out of his crate after only a few tries while it might take another cat days just to get comfortable being in the room with the crate. Pushing your cat to learn too much or go too fast means skipping needed reinforcement, which can lead to frustration and confusion and can increase the likelihood that your cat — and you — will give up on training. Increase the difficulty of training at a pace that keeps your cat engaged, but be cautious — slowing your pace to baby steps creates more opportunities for your cat to succeed and helps to build his confidence. And keep in mind that all those little steps add up to big steps — and potentially big changes in your cat’s behavior.

One last thought: If all else fails, don’t be afraid to ask for help.

If your cat’s issues aren’t getting better with consistent training or the problems are especially concerning, like aggression or failure to use the litterbox consistently, seek help from your veterinarian, who may refer you to a veterinary behaviorist. Your vet can help identify any medical issues that may be to blame for changes in your cat’s behavior and habits, while a veterinary behaviorist or trainer can provide individualized training advice tailored to your cat’s issues.

More on Vetstreet:

The post 5 Cat Training Mistakes: Guilty of Any? appeared first on Vetstreet.

Can You Clicker-Train a Cat? Oh, Yes, You Can

Mikkel Becker — Wed, 21 Sep 2022 18:31:27 +0000

"You can’t train a cat! Cats train people — that’s how it works."

I hear this all the time from friends and clients alike — and I always disagree. As an animal trainer, I’m on a mission to increase awareness that cats can, indeed, be trained. Positive reinforcement training (which is widely recognized as useful in training dogs) can be extremely beneficial for cats. The benefits of this type of training include resolution of certain behavioral issues and an increased bond between pets and pet owners. Your cat can also benefit from the physical and mental stimulation of training, as well as the emotional boost and positive associations created by reward-based methods.

Before diving into the principles behind cat training, though, it’s important to address the most common stumbling block for many pet owners: The idea of getting a cat to do anything the cat does not want to do on her own can seem ridiculous. After all, cats are not the type of creature who can be forced to do much of anything against their will — just ask anyone who’s tried to put a resistant cat into a carrier for a vet trip.

The good news is that the best type of training for cats is done in a nonconfrontational manner where the feline willingly participates. In other words, you’re not forcing your cat to do something she doesn’t want to do — you’re teaching her to want to do what you’re asking.

How to Motivate Your Cat

I know what you’re thinking: Willing participation… from a cat? Absolutely! After all, this same type of positive reinforcement training is commonly used in zoo settings with your cat’s predatory relatives, the lion, cheetah and tiger. For both predatory cats and domesticated felines, the key to training is to communicate with them in an effective manner. And positive reinforcement training allows you to do just that.

The fist step in training your cat is to find the right reward — something your cat is willing to work for. Sure, it would be great if your cat would do what you ask simply because she wants to please you. But think about it this way: As much as you might love your job, you would most likely stop showing up if your company did away with your salary and benefits. Your cat feels the same way: She’s willing to do what you ask — and might even enjoy it! — but you’ve got to make it worth her while.

Odds are, you are already offering your cat a variety of rewards, such as treats or toys, throughout the day. Training means switching from rewarding your cat for just being your cat to rewarding her for specific behaviors. In other words, all those treats and toys need to become contingent on the cat doing what you ask her to do.

Reinforce and Reward

The behavior you are asking for doesn’t have to be complicated; you can start with something your cat already does naturally, like sitting on her perch. The key is to teach your cat to associate the behavior with the reward. A simple way to do this is by using a marker to pinpoint behavior that’s being reinforced. The marker specifies the correct behavior as it happens and links it with the reward that follows.

I prefer to use a clicker to mark desired behavior when I’m training a cat, but a specific word, like “good” or “yes” can also be used as a marker — just be consistent about the word you use. Because the marker is not innately rewarding in itself, it is important that you always follow the signal with a reward (ideally within one to two seconds of the click or word). And, of course, the reward should be something your cat really likes: a lick of a soft treat, playtime with a special toy or access to a desired place, for example.

Cats are adept at reading people and figuring out which behaviors will work to get the outcome they desire, which helps them to learn new behaviors quickly. This may be why it so frequently appears as though the cat has trained the people: She has learned, through experience, that certain behaviors (meowing and pawing) garner desired results (petting or food). Of course, this is exactly what makes reward-based training so effective: Your cat quickly learns which behaviors bring the best results.

Plan Ahead

When it comes time for the training, it’s important to start with an idea of what the final behavior will look like when it’s finished. This serves as a road map for the training. Sometimes a cat naturally does a behavior on her own, such as a sit, and this can be marked and rewarded when it occurs.

But more difficult behaviors may need to be taught in steps, starting with something simple. For instance, if you are teaching your cat to high five, you may start by rewarding for a sit. From there, you can add other behaviors, such as high paw raise while sitting. Eventually, your cat will learn to put all the pieces together. Keep in mind, though, that more complicated tricks — those that require multiple steps — may require extra special rewards, like a nibble of your cat’s absolute favorite tasty treat.

Once your cat is reliably doing a behavior or trick, you can add a verbal cue to the clicker. Start by saying the word, such as “sit,” just as your cat does the behavior; this helps to create an association between the word and the cat’s action. You may have to repeat this process a number of times before your cat begins to associate the word (“sit”) with the action (sitting), but eventually you will be ready to progress to saying the word just before your cat does the behavior (rather than as she is doing it). After each successful pairing of the word and the behavior, reward your cat.

After enough repetitions, your cat will learn to pair the word with the action and will respond to hearing the cue by doing the behavior — in anticipation, of course, of her reward.

Keep It Simple

Training doesn’t need to be overwhelming for you or your cat. Shorter sessions, lasting from 20 seconds to five minutes, are actually best. Choose training with minimal distractions, such as in a room where the cat is already comfortable. In addition, it is important that you get in the habit of routinely rewarding desired behaviors in normal interactions with your cat, to reinforce the desired behavior.

If you’re trying to resolve a problem behavior, it’s important to know in advance what you want your cat to do in place of the unwanted behavior, as your efforts are best spent building and rewarding desired behavior rather than on eliminating unacceptable behavior. For example, if your cat demands attention and petting by pawing and vocalizing, you will need to teach her both that this behavior doesn’t work any longer and that sitting quietly on her perch does.

If your cat has serious behavior issues and does not respond to training, it is important to know that there are various resources available to you. Rather than giving up and just living with an unresolved issue, or resorting to surrender, seek out qualified help, such as with a veterinary behaviorist, veterinarian or a reward-based training professional working in combination with a veterinarian.

More on Vetstreet:

The post Can You Clicker-Train a Cat? Oh, Yes, You Can appeared first on Vetstreet.

Cat Training A-to-Z: Brief Glossary of Terms

Mikkel Becker — Wed, 21 Sep 2022 18:31:25 +0000

You’ve found a cat trainer you like and you’re excited to be working with her — but then she recommends clicker training or variable reinforcement or redirection and you have no idea what she’s talking about. Trainer Mikkel Becker can help: She’s defined some of the most commonly used cat training terms, so you can communicate successfully with your trainer and help teach your cat to be a well-mannered feline.

B

Behavior modification: The process of changing an animal’s behavior. The goal of behavior modification is to reduce undesirable or problematic behavior by modifying the situation in such a way that the problem behavior no longer pays off. Over time, problem behaviors should become less frequent, fade entirely or be replaced by more desirable behaviors.

Body language: Physical postures and movements used by felines to communicate with other animals and people. Body language — often in combination with vocalizations like meows, growls, hisses or chirps — can provide insight into a feline’s emotional state or intent in a specific situation.

C

Classical conditioning: Repeated pairings of a neutral stimulus with an unconditioned stimulus generates the unconditioned response, or one which requires no specific training. For example, the smell of food (an unconditioned stimulus) may cause a cat to salivate (the unconditioned response). Over time, the cat may learn to associate the sound of a wrapper or can opener (a neutral stimulus) with the food and may begin to salivate when she hears the noise (the unconditioned response). Eventually, the can opener or wrapper sound becomes a conditioned stimulus, one that elicits a consistent response.

Click: The action of using a marker (most often a clicker) to pinpoint a desired behavior. May also be used to describe the sound the clicker makes.

Clicker training: A form of positive reinforcement training that uses a signal, most commonly a clicker, to pinpoint correct behavior. The signal is immediately followed by a desirable reward, such as a treat, a toy or an opportunity to play. The signal helps the cat identify which behavior is earning her the reward.

Conflicted: When a cat simultaneously wants to do something and is afraid to do it. For example, a cat can be conflicted when approaching someone new: She wants to approach to smell and investigate but is afraid of the person reaching his or her hands out or bending over to pet her.

Counter conditioning: The process of changing a cat’s emotional reaction to a situation from negative to positive. This is done by gradually exposing the the cat to a situation in a way that does not upset her while pairing the situation with a desirable reward. The goal is to teach the cat to associate the situation with something positive. An example of this type of scenario is teaching a cat that a person coming into the house is something to get excited about rather than be afraid of. Through counter conditioning, the cat can be taught that a new person coming into the house is the signal for a treat, rather than a reason to run and hide.

Criteria: The standard by which a pet owner judges a behavior or the standard used to decide which behavior is acceptable and which is unacceptable. Criteria can be adjusted as needed during training in order to enable the cat to successfully learn the correct behavior.

Cue: Signal given to a cat to elicit a desired behavior. “Cue” and “command” are traditionally synonymous, but the word “command” is not commonly used in reward-based training, as it has a connotation of using force to make a cat do something. “Cue” is most often used to refer to a training situation where a cat is asked to perform a behavior and is rewarded for her success.

D

Desensitize: Getting a cat used to a scenario that causes her distress by gradually presenting the situation in a manner that does not upset the cat.

Distraction(s): Sounds, smells, sights and other stimuli that detract from a cat’s ability to remain focused or perform what’s being asked. A low-distraction environment is ideal for training.

E

Enrichment: Any attempt to promote a cat’s physical and psychological well being through specific activities (food puzzles that mimic hunting, for example) or changes to the environment (cat trees that facilitate climbing).

Extinction: Ending a behavior by removing reinforcement. For example, a cat paws at her owner to get attention; if the person ignores the cat while she’s pawing, removing the reward of attention, that behavior ceases to be rewarding and the cat will usually stop pawing. Extinction does not require punishment; instead, it relies on removing reinforcement of unwanted behavior.

Extinction burst: When previously reinforced behavior no longer works to get the desired reward, pet owners may see a surge of stronger, more intense behavior as the cat makes one last effort to get the reinforcement she seeks. A cat who has been rewarded for pawing may do so with increased gusto when she realizes that she’s being ignored. It is important to note that when a behavior is no longer reinforced, it can sometimes get worse — and more intense — before it fades away.

F

Fading the lure: The process of taking the lure out of the training so the cat learns to do the requested behavior in response to another cue, such as a hand signal or word. Fading the lure teaches the cat to do the behavior without being dependent upon a treat being in the trainer’s hand. To fade the lure, certain tricks can be used, such as keeping a treat in the hand doing the luring but rewarding with a treat given with the other hand. From there, progress to holding the hand shaped like it has a treat but with no treat inside. Next, gradually decrease the size of the hand movement needed to cue the behavior or shift the behavior to a new cue.

Fear-free or fearless vet visits: A low-stress approach popular in the veterinary community and other associated practices, like boarding, grooming and training, in which handling, interactions and procedures are done in a manner designed to keep the cat as calm as possible. Other strategies include changing the environment, using medications when necessary and offering rewards to encourage willing cooperation from the cat. In every case, the goal is to keep the experience as positive as possible.

Functional analysis, or the ABC of a behavior: Functional analysis looks at three components of behavior: antecedent, behavior and consequence. Behavior issues can by analyzed using this approach, starting with what elicits the behavior. For a behavior like mouthing a human’s hands, the antecedent might be a person sitting down on the couch or floor. The behavior is what the cat does, such as coming near, freezing, pouncing and then mouthing hands with body language indicative of play. Finally, the consequence is what happens to the cat when she mouths — for example, the person responds by allowing the cat to play with his fingers. The ABC analysis can help identify both the problem and the solution. In this example, playing with the cat reinforces the pouncing and mouthing, because the cat is being rewarded for her behavior.

G

Generalize: A behavior is considered generalized when a cat can reliably be asked to perform the specific behavior in a variety of different contexts. For example, a cat may consistently respond to a request to sit when she’s in the kitchen, but this behavior may not be as reliable in a different area of the home, like the living room. Cats generalize to a certain degree, but for behaviors to be reliably performed anywhere, they need to be practiced in a wide range of circumstances.

Go to your spot: A cat who is taught to go to her spot (or station) learns to go to a specific area and wait there until she is released. A typical spot is a perch, crate or bed.

H

Habituate: To become accustomed to a specific situation through repeated exposures. A cat may alert at a noise, for instance, but after hearing the noise repeatedly, she may become indifferent to it and begin to ignore it. This type of learning occurs naturally and doesn’t require a structured training plan. (See also: sensitize.)

I

Interrupt: To turn a cat’s focus away from an unwanted behavior as an intervention to stop the unwanted behavior. From there, the cat can be redirected to an acceptable behavior. An interruption does not need to be loud or sudden; a slight shuffle of the feet or a quiet clap is ideal.

L

Low-stress handling: See fear-free or fearless vet visits.

Lure-based training: Using something that a cat is willing to follow (most commonly food or a toy) to guide the cat into a desired position (a sit, for example). Once the cat is in the desired position, the lure is used as a reward. A lure can be a treat held in the hand, food on the end of a spoon, a toy or any other object that a cat will follow as it is moved.

M

Management: Controlling the environment so that the cat doesn’t have an opportunity to rehearse an unwanted behavior. For example, a management strategy for a cat that jumps on kitchen counters when food is being prepared is to put the cat in another area, such as a cat-proofed room, during meal prep.

Mark: To use a specific signal at the moment a desired behavior occurs to indicate an acceptable behavior. (See also: marker.)

Marker: A stimulus that pinpoints the behavior the cat did to earn a reward. The most common markers are either a clicker or a specific word, such as “good” or “yes.” The marker should be used at the exact moment the behavior occurs. For example, when teaching a sit, the marker should be used as soon as the cat’s bottom touches the ground. The same marker should be consistently used by every member of the family or household and should always be immediately followed by a reward.

Motivated: When a cat’s behavior is influenced by something she wants and is willing to work for. A cat who is motivated by games with a wand toy is both willing to play the game and willing to do what she’s asked in order to get access to the game, such as sit before the game is started.

N

Negative reinforcement: Use of an aversive or undesirable consequence to teach a specific behavior.

O

Operant conditioning: Increase or decrease in certain behaviors based on the associated consequences of the behavior. For instance, a kitten may learn to be less forward and more polite when she gets swiped with a paw for being too pushy. Or the kitten may learn that when she stalks and pounces on a person wearing slippers, the person shakes his or her feet playfully back, reinforcing the pouncing. The quadrants of learning (positive reinforcement, negative reinforcement, positive punishment and negative punishment) fall under the heading of operant conditioning.

P

Positive reinforcement: Use of positive, desirable or pleasurable consequences to teach a behavior. An example is offering a cat a reward, such as a treat or toy, for an acceptable behavior.

Predatory behavior: Behavior that mimics hunting, capturing and consuming prey. In cats, hints of predatory behavior are evident in some forms of play, such as stalking, pouncing on and biting a feather toy. A cat may also exhibit this behavior with live prey— for example, a cat may actually kill and potentially consume a bug or mouse.

Prompt: Using extra reminders, such as pointing, treats or bigger gestures, to elicit a desired behavior when the cat fails to respond to the initial cue.

Punishment: Use of aversive stimuli to decrease or change a behavior. Punishment has a variety of negative consequences. Frequent use of punishment may lead the cat to fear her person. Other unintended negative outcomes may be an escalation of the problem behavior or an increase in aggression.

Push, drop, stick: Shorthand way to know if a cat is ready for the next step in training. Put the cat through five trials of a desired behavior. If the cat can correctly do the behavior four or five times, push to the next level of difficulty. If she gets it right two or fewer times, drop to a previous, easier level. If she gets it right three out of five times, stick to that level.

R

Rate of reinforcement: The frequency with which the cat is rewarded. The rate of reinforcement can be determined by counting how many rewards a cat is given in 60 seconds and dividing 60 by the number of rewards given. If the cat is given three treats in 60 seconds, the rate of reinforcement is one every 20 seconds. Cats often need a high rate of reinforcement (around 5 to 10 treats per minute) and short sessions to keep them interested in the training.

Redirect: To shift a cat’s focus from an unwanted behavior to a desirable behavior. If a cat is clawing on something forbidden (the sofa), she can be redirected to a scratching post. She can then be rewarded for clawing the appropriate area, which reinforces the acceptable behavior.

Redirected aggression: When a cat is upset about something, such as a feral cat passing by the house or a dog barking in the yard, she may respond by aggressing at something she can reach, like a housemate cat.

Reinforcement, reward(s): A consequence the cat finds pleasurable and desirable. Reinforcement and rewards are learner-dependent; some cats will do what they are asked in return for a treat, while others may be motivated by a special toy, petting or an extra session of play. Reinforcement and rewards are also contextual; what is reinforcing or rewarding in one situation may not be in another. For instance, a cat may find petting rewarding when she’s with familiar people but may require a different reward when strangers are around.

Response substitution or differential reinforcement of an incompatible behavior: Training that teaches a cat to replace an unacceptable behavior with one that is incompatible with that behavior. As an example, a cat who pounces on feet may be taught to go to a spot in order to earn a reward; this puts a stop to the foot pouncing because staying on the mat is incompatible with following moving feet.

S

Scavenger hunt, treasure hunt: Hiding treats, food or toys around the house for the cat to find. A scavenger hunt may be used as an alternative to a food puzzle. For example, low-calorie treats can be hidden on perches for the cat to search out and enjoy during the day.

Sensitize: To become more sensitive, alert, fearful or reactive to a specific situation through repeated exposures. For example, a noise may initially cause a cat to startle, but after hearing the noise repeatedly she may progress to cowering, licking lips and hiding. (See also: habituate.)

Setting events: Conditions in a cat’s life that make it more likely that the cat will act in a certain manner. For example, a young cat who doesn’t get enough exercise or mental stimulation may be more wound up and prone to unwanted behavior like climbing curtains.

Shaping: The process of teaching a cat a complex behavior by breaking it down into simple steps. The simple behaviors are trained in a gradual progression, with each new step moving the cat closer to the goal behavior. (See also: successive approximation.)

Socialization: The process by which a kitten learns about the world. The prime socialization period of a kitten is 3 to 7 weeks of age but can extend up to 14 weeks. A kitten’s experiences during this time can influence her perception and reaction to the variety of people and situations she will encounter as she grows.

Stimulus control: When a cue elicits a predictable and reliable response from a cat. For example, when a cat is asked to high five, she does so every time under a variety of different conditions.

Stress: When discussing cats, stress is frequently used as a synonym for distress. Cats can experience stress for a number of reasons, from lack of significant exercise or mental stimulation to unpredictable and punishment-based interactions with humans. Stress can be related to environmental and life situations as well, such as moving, losing a family member or the arrival of a new pet. If a cat is exhibiting signs of stress, it is important to address them as early as possible.

Successive approximation: Small steps that are used to reach a more complex goal or behavior. (See also: shaping.)

Systematic desensitization: Training plan designed to change a cat’s response to an upsetting scenario by breaking it into small pieces that do not trigger a fear response in the cat. The goal is to teach the cat to tolerate the situation without getting upset or anxious.

T

Target: Teaching a cat to touch a certain part of herself (her nose or paw) to an object or area (a person’s hand or a target stick). Targeting can be used to get a cat to move willingly from one place to another (into and out of a crate or carrier, for example) or to teach a new behavior, such as a spin. Targeting can also help cats to overcome fear of certain objects; a cat can be taught to target a pair of nail clippers as a way of reducing the stress associated with nail trims.

Threshold: A way of describing a cat’s emotional state in a certain situation. A cat who is under threshold is tolerant and relaxed. A cat who is at threshold is mildly stressed, while a cat who is over threshold is anxious and reactive.

V

Variable schedule of reinforcement: A variance in the amount of time or number of behaviors required for a cat to earn a reward. A variable schedule helps keep the cat excited about and invested in the training.

W

Warning signals: Behaviors used by a cat to communicate discomfort with a situation. These can include growling, hissing and tail swishing. These signals are used to warn a person or another cat to slow down and back off. It is important not to punish or disregard warning signals, because they are indicators of the cat’s discomfort; instead, the situation needs to be addressed in order to prevent a bite or a fight.

More on Vetstreet:

The post Cat Training A-to-Z: Brief Glossary of Terms appeared first on Vetstreet.

Cat Training A-to-Z: Brief Glossary of Tools

Mikkel Becker — Wed, 21 Sep 2022 18:31:25 +0000

Cat training has its own language and its own set of tools. When your trainer suggests that your feline needs a cat fountain or a food puzzle or says she might enjoy a wand toy, do you know what she’s talking about? Trainer Mikkel Becker is here to help: She has defined some of the most commonly used cat-training tools recommended by trainers.

C

Cat fountain: Water fountain with an operating function that creates movement simulating running water.

Cat furniture: Elevated vertical structures for a cat to explore or use as an escape. These areas may include cat trees, cat shelving or perches.

Catnip: Herb from the mint family. Not all cats are affected by catnip, and reactions may vary widely. Some cats are excited and invigorated by catnip, while others may be calmed.

Cat room: A cat-proofed area of the home where a cat can safely and comfortably be contained. A cat room is useful if your feline sometimes needs a break from people or other pets or needs to be left alone for any length of time.

Cat toys: There are two basic varieties of cat toys: Those designed for a cat to play with on her own and those designed to promote interaction with a human. In both cases, toys are usually made of materials that are intriguing to a cat, such as feathers, bells or crinkly paper. Some interactive cat toys include electronic functions that allow the toy to move, light up or make noises. Other types of interactive toys, including wand toys, are designed to be manipulated by a human. A wand toy consists of a long stick or wand with a toy attached to the end.

Catio: Secure, enclosed area where a cat can enjoy the outdoors while being protected from dangers such as traffic and predators. Catios may be various shapes and sizes and may have special netting or wiring (to keep the feline safely inside), as well as climbers and scratching posts, if desired.

Cat fencing: Structure designed to keep a cat inside a designated outdoor space. Cat fencing uses specific materials and innovative design to help prevent cats from jumping out of (or, in some cases, into) a yard or secured area.

Cavity toys: See food puzzles.

Clicker: Tool used to mark or pinpoint a desired behavior with a clicking noise. There are a variety of clickers, from the standard box clicker, which makes a sudden, sharp noise, to more muted versions (like a ballpoint pen) for cats that are more sensitive to sound.

Collar: Cat collars are often designed with special stretch and breakaway functions, to help prevent felines from harming themselves if the collar catches on something. Collars are useful for holding ID tags.

Crate: Box-like shelter for a cat. Crates come in a variety of designs, including hard plastic, wire and soft-sided, and all crates should have at least two exits, one in the front and one on top. Some crates are designed to fold up for easy storage. Many veterinarians and trainers recommend a top-removal crate as the least stressful option for most cats when they must be removed from the container.

D

Den space: Area designated as a resting or hiding space. Den spaces can be naturally occurring areas like behind a couch or under a bed or cat-specific spaces such as a covered bed, tunnel or crate.

F

Food bowl: Stainless steel or ceramic container used to feed a cat. While cats with limited mobility may do better with the traditional single bowl, more able-bodied cats can be encouraged to eat more slowly or work for their meal when it is fed in several smaller bowls spread out around a designated area or throughout the home.

Food puzzles: Toy designed to hold food or treats. The cat uses her teeth, tongue, paws and mouth to manipulate the toy and remove the food, which provides important physical and mental stimulation.

G

Gate: Portable barrier that can be used to block off a specific area of the house. However, because most cats can jump a standard sized gate, it may be most useful for keeping other pets or people out of a cat-safe area rather than keeping the cat in.

H

Harness: Device used in conjunction with a leash to safely keep a cat from running away. Feline-specific harness and leash systems often include a bungee-type leash with flex.

Hiding area: See den space.

K

Kennel: See crate.

L

Litterbox: Contained, designated space in which a cat is trained to urinate and defecate. There are two basic types of litterboxes: covered (mostly enclosed, with an opening for the cat to enter and exit) and uncovered (open on the top and sides). Most cats do well with an uncovered litterbox. Whether you choose a covered or uncovered box for your cat, you can purchase a mechanical litterbox, which automatically sifts litter and can reduce cleaning time, although some cats may be bothered by the noise and movement.

Litter: Substrate used inside the litterbox to absorb urine and contain feces. There are many varieties of kitty litter, but cats commonly prefer a finer-grained substrate with clumping properties.

Litter mat: Rubber or plastic mat that sits under the litterbox and helps to contain any litter cats may push or track out of the litterbox.

Lure: A stimulus that a cat will willingly follow. Treats are the most commonly used lure, but toys are another useful type of lure.

S

Scratching post: A surface promoting clawing and scratching behavior from cats. Posts may be vertical or horizontal and are most frequently made of sisal, corrugated cardboard or carpeting. Scratching posts are useful for deterring unwanted clawing (for example, on furniture) and for dulling your cat’s claws in a healthy fashion.

T

Target stick: A long wand that can expand or retract as needed, with a ball on one end that the cat is trained to touch with a body part, commonly his mouth or nose. Some target sticks have a built-in clicker. A wooden spoon can be used in place of a target stick.

Training pouch, treat pouch: Pouch that holds treats and clips to a belt, pocket or waistband or has a fanny pack-style band that wraps around the waist. Larger training pouches can also hold other necessities, such as keys and a cellphone.

Treat stations: Areas around the home where treats are stored to make rewarding good behavior easier. Treat stations provide an alternative to carrying treats all the time. Concealing the treat containers keeps the cat on her best behavior, as she does not know when or where she might be rewarded.

More on Vetstreet:

The post Cat Training A-to-Z: Brief Glossary of Tools appeared first on Vetstreet.

How to Crate Train Your Cat

Mikkel Becker — Wed, 21 Sep 2022 18:30:46 +0000

Teaching your cat to feel secure and comfortable in his crate can make it easier to entice him into it when you need to transport him somewhere, like the veterinarian’s office. But your cat’s crate can be useful for more than just taking him on the road; a crate can be a retreat for your cat in unfamiliar or stressful situations.

Unfortunately, many cats fear the crate or associate it with negative things. For these cats, a crate is more like a portable prison than a personal getaway. In fact, the mere sight of the crate can become a cue that something bad is likely to happen, which can lead to a feline freak out — and make getting your kitty into his crate nearly impossible.

The good news is that with just a little patience, most cats can be trained to love the crate. Here are my tips for making the crate your cat’s happy place.

The Comfortable Crate

If you want your cat to love his crate, then you need to start with the right design. My favorite crates have removable tops and at least two exit points. This is important because one exit point may be easier to access than another, depending on how your cat is positioned in the crate when you get to your destination. A crates with a removable top also allows your veterinarian to examine your cat without removing him from the crate; this can reduce your cat’s anxiety and make trips to the vet less stressful for him — and you.

Choosing the right crate is only the first step, though; you need to create a comfortable environment inside the crate. Make a soft nest with plush bedding or blankets with the cat’s familiar scent on the bottom of the crate, and consider spritzing Feliway, a pheromone spray, inside the crate to help calm your kitty.

When carrying the crate, lift it evenly on both sides, rather than grabbing it by the handle, and carry it gently, as if it were a breakable present. You may also want to cover the crate with a towel or blanket to reduce visual stimuli, which can be stressful for your cat.

Finally, be aware that forcibly pulling your cat out of his crate can scare him. Instead, open the door or remove the top and ignore the cat until he comes out on his own, or lure him out with food, petting and play.

How to Crate Train Your Cat

Once you’ve got the right crate, it’s time to teach your cat that it is his own private kingdom. The following strategies can be used on their own or in combination to make the crate appealing to your kitty.

Move meals inside. Leave a Hansel and Gretel-like trail of your cat’s favorite treats leading up to and inside of the crate, or serve your cat’s meals inside. Leave the door open during the training stages to reduce his fear of being trapped. If your cat is initially reluctant to eat inside the carrier, start by placing treats or his food bowl as close as possible to the door of the carrier (but make sure it’s far enough away that he’s still willing to approach the food and eat — this may be a couple of inches or a couple of feet, depending on the cat). At each feeding, move the food bowl closer to the crate; go slowly and make sure your cat remains comfortable with the change. Once your nervous kitty begins to venture inside his crate, remove the top; leave it off until he’s comfortable eating a snack or meal inside the base of the crate.

Close the door. Your cat’s crate should be a place where good things happen. Offer your cat a special toy or treat, like a stuffed kitty Kong, when he’s in his crate. Once he is relaxed and engaged with his toy, shut the door for a couple of minutes; reopen it before he loses interest in his treat. Gradually increase the amount of time you leave the door closed. If your cat acts nervous when the door is shut, keep intervals short: Close the door for a couple of seconds, drop a treat into the crate while the door is closed, then open the door. Slowly increase the amount of time you leave the door closed.

Add a cue. It can be a struggle to get a panicked cat into a crate. Counter this by teaching your cat to go inside his crate willingly. There are several ways to do this: A cat can be trained to follow a target stick or hand target into a crate, or a treat or toy can be used to lure the cat into the crate. Whatever approach you choose, the key to getting your cat to go into his crate when asked is to pair a verbal cue or hand signal with the lure, to indicate that the cat will be rewarded when he goes into his crate. For instance, say the word "crate" and immediately place your cat’s food bowl inside the crate; over time, he will come to associate the cue with his dinner.

Encourage exploration. Instead of storing your cat’s crate in the attic between vet visits, leave it out and treat it as fun, friendly furniture. This encourages the cat to get familiar and comfortable with the sight of it and helps counteract bad or stressful associations he may have formed. Randomly drop treats, new toys or other goodies inside the crate during the day, even when your cat isn’t around. This will entice him to explore the crate to see what fun awaits inside. Especially affectionate cats can be petted while they sit in their crates, making it a go-to spot for attention.

More on Vetstreet.com:

The post How to Crate Train Your Cat appeared first on Vetstreet.

How to Train a Cat to Walk on a Leash

Mikkel Becker — Wed, 21 Sep 2022 18:30:42 +0000

Exercise and mental stimulation are important for your cat’s emotional and physical well-being. A tired cat is a happy cat, one who is less likely to engage in destructive behaviors like shredding the furniture.

Providing your cat with the physical exercise and mental stimulation he needs can be a challenge, though. Many pet owners turn their cats loose outside to explore. But this isn’t a safe solution; your cat can be hit by a car, attacked by a predator or just lost forever.

If your cat is social, relaxed and outgoing, one of the safest ways to allow him to experience the outdoors is to teach him to walk on leash. It’s true: Cats actually can learn to walk on leash! Watch the video to find out if your cat is a good candidate for leash walking and how to train him to heel nicely at your side.

https://cdn-videos.vetstreet.com/Teach_a_Cat_to_Walk_on_Leash_(HD_1080_-_WEB_(H264_4000)).mp4

More from Vetstreet:

The post How to Train a Cat to Walk on a Leash appeared first on Vetstreet.

How to Train Your Cat to Sit

Mikkel Becker — Wed, 21 Sep 2022 18:30:41 +0000

Cat training may seem impossible — after all, we love our cats for their independent natures — but your feline is smart, and she can be taught to do all sorts of cool tricks. One of the most useful is learning to sit on command. Teaching your cat to sit — and stay — means she’s less likely to be underfoot all the time or in your way when you’re preparing dinner or changing the baby.

And think how impressed your friends will be!

I recommend two methods for teaching your cat to sit: the lure and the clicker.

Using a Lure to Teach a Sit

The first method is to lure the cat into a sit using a soft treat that can be smeared onto a spoon or target stick. Canned cat foods, cream cheese, spreadable cheese, kong spray, meat-based baby food (make sure there’s no garlic or onion in it), canned tuna or other soft fish or yogurt can make ideal lickable rewards.

Raise your lure (the spoon with the treat smeared on it) slowly above her face, moving past her nose and toward her forehead. She will follow the lure with her head and will wind up in a sitting position. Once she is sitting, offer a couple of licks and then raise the spoon away.

Reward your cat for following the lure with her nose by marking this movement with a clicker and offering a quick lick of the treat. Eventually, you can begin to build the behavior by waiting until your cat moves her bottom closer to the floor to click. The goal is to get to the point where you are clicking only when your cat’s bottom touches the floor.

Once your cat gets the hang of sitting, it’s time to fade the lure — take the lure out of training — and replace it with a word or hand signal. To fade the lure, use it to get your cat into a sit but reward her with a loose treat or a lick of treat from a different spoon or bowl. Over time, move to using a clean spoon without a treat to lure your cat to sit while continuing to offer a treat from your hand or a bowl.

You can also replace the lure with a verbal cue or hand signal. One strategy is to lift your hand in a way similar to how you held the lure. Hold a treat in the hand the first couple of times, if needed. You can also start by pairing a hand signal or word, like “sit,” with the lure. After a number of repetitions of this pairing, your cat will be able to anticipate what she is being asked to do when she hears the cue or sees the signal, and she should begin to respond to that signal rather than to the lure.

Using a Clicker to Teach a Sit

The second method for teaching a sit is to wait for the cat to sit on her own and mark the behavior with a clicker when it happens. As soon as your cat’s bottom touches the floor, click and deliver a reward, such as a lick or two of a special treat.

Clicker training works well for skittish or fearful cats who may do best with interactions that are hands off and don’t require you to get too close. To reward a nervous cat, mark the behavior and then immediately offer a reward — either a loose, soft treat tossed gently toward her or something like a bonito flake (for cats) served on a familiar dish or bowl.

Training should ideally occur at a time when your cat would naturally sit down and in a place where she will be comfortable sitting. For instance, if your cat naturally sits on a windowsill, a perch or the back of the couch, be ready to reward her in those places. As you continue to mark and reward, your cat will learn to connect sitting with the click and the reward. Watch for your cat to sit in a purposeful manner, such as looking over at you before she sits or for her to begin sitting more frequently.

Once your cat begins to sit deliberately, you can add in a cue — again, either a word or hand signal. Start by introducing the word or hand signal just as the cat is moving into a sitting position, such as when she tucks her back end under her on the way into the sit. Eventually start to give the signal when you anticipate your cat is getting ready to sit, such as after eating a treat or getting onto her perch.

When you feel that your cat is associating the cue with the behavior, start rewarding only those behaviors that happen in response to the cue. Give the cue to “sit” while your cat is still standing; if she responds and sits, immediately reward her. If she sits without the cue, reset her by returning her to a standing position and then saying the cue. As soon as she responds to the cue, reward her — but only then. Your cat will be quick to learn to wait for the signal, since it functions as a sign that she will be rewarded for her behavior.

If your cat sits in response to the cue but stands up immediately, withhold the click and the treat for a second or two longer. Alternatively, you can reward the sit by clicking while your cat stays in a sitting position and bringing the treat to her, so she can remain sitting while enjoying it.

A “sit stay” can be built by adding in distractions, like turning your body slightly or taking a step or two away from her. Mark and reward your cat as long as she remains in her sit. As your cat gets comfortable with sitting and staying, add distance, duration and distractions.

Keep training sessions short — 30 seconds to five minutes ideally interspersed a couple times throughout the day. You’ll be amazed at how incredibly intelligent your feline really is and how quickly she masters the sit.

More on Vetstreet:

The post How to Train Your Cat to Sit appeared first on Vetstreet.

How to Train Your Cat to Go to Her Spot

Mikkel Becker — Wed, 21 Sep 2022 18:30:40 +0000

We love our cats for their independent and curious natures. They often want to be where we are and see what we’re doing. But a cat who is underfoot or on the counters can be a nuisance — and a hazard. Teaching your cat to go to her spot can help to keep her — and you — safer while minimizing chaos in your home.

Start by Designating a Spot

The key to getting your cat to go to her spot is to make the spot a desirable and rewarding place to be.

Location is one factor to consider when setting up your kitty’s hangout. If your cat has an established place she likes to rest — on your desk, for example — placing the new resting area next to her old haunt can make it easier to transition to the new resting spot routine. Locating the resting space in a preferred vantage point, such as near a window or on an elevated perch, can also help make it an appealing place to hang out.

If your cat’s spot is portable — a bed, towel or blanket — start by placing it in a specific area, like on a secure shelf or next to her favorite chair. Then, with practice, it can be transitioned to other areas like her crate or the vet’s office to create an on-the-go safe space for your kitty.

A cat who is relaxed with handling may be lifted onto the space, while a cat who is not fond of being picked up or carried can perhaps be lured to the spot with a wand toy or trail of treats. Encourage your cat to seek out the designated resting spot on her own by placing treats, catnip and toys there randomly throughout the day for her to discover.

When your cat is in her spot, give her all the things she enjoys: treats, meals, attention, petting, toys and play. This teaches her to associate the spot with good things happening to her.

If you find your cat in an undesired space — on the kitchen counter, say — luring or physically moving her from the forbidden space and into the new area and then rewarding her once she’s there can help to reinforce the new routine.

Training Your Cat to Go to Her Spot

Start by establishing a marker, like a clicker or word, to signal when the cat does a desirable behavior. Reward your feline with something she enjoys, such as treats, play or petting, after each marked response.

Initially reward any slight movement toward the space, like glancing at or stepping toward the space. Toys and treats or your own movement toward the area can initially be used to arouse your cat’s interest in the space. Place rewards near or on top of the spot to increase her tendency to gravitate toward it.

Once your cat is willingly approaching the resting space, begin encouraging her to move onto the spot. Start small: Reward even one paw on the space and work toward getting all four paws on. Once the cat’s four paws are on, reward her for remaining in the area. In the beginning, ask her to remain on the spot for just a couple of seconds before giving the reward; as she gets more comfortable with the spot, slowly increase the time she needs to remain there before rewarding her.

Once your cat is consistently going to her space, you can add a verbal cue, such as “bed,” to ask for the behavior. To teach the cue, say the word — “bed” — every time your cat steps onto her area. This repetitious pairing of the word with the behavior teaches her to associate the two things. Continue to reward her for going to her space.

If your cat is reluctant to move away from her space during training, you may need to toss a treat or toy away from the area to get her to practice moving back onto the desired spot.

Once your cat is responding to the verbal cue, add distractions and distance in small increments when asking for the behavior. This helps to prepare your cat to respond to the cue in a real-life scenario by incorporating elements of what the cat will likely experience when she is asked to go to her spot. Practice giving the cue while holding groceries or other things in your hands, while opening the door or with distractions like other people and animals moving around nearby.

If a cat needs to reliably listen and move right to her spot when asked, advanced training will be necessary. Talk with your veterinarian, who may be able to help, or may refer you to a trainer who can help you in this situation.

Training takes time, patience and consistency, but having a cat who responds to your commands is well worth the work.

More on Vetstreet:

The post How to Train Your Cat to Go to Her Spot appeared first on Vetstreet.

How to Train Your Cat to ‘Leave It’

The Vetstreet Team — Wed, 21 Sep 2022 18:30:40 +0000

Unlike dogs, most cats don't generally pounce on and swallow items they come across before you can stop them. That's fortunate, because unlike dogs, it's not so easy to teach your cat the "leave it" command. But that doesn't mean it can't be done.

With cats, though, you're more likely to want them to leave household items or pets alone rather than resisting the urge to inhale dropped items. You want your cat to learn to leave your pet birds, fish and rodents alone. This will be much easier if you're starting with a kitten, especially a kitten who has been raised indoors rather than one from a mother who may have hunted for him.

Teach Your Cat to Ignore Other Pets

Of course, your first line of defense is a secure cage for your smaller pet. No matter how well-trained your cat appears to be, don't take chances. Never leave your bird or other small pet loose when you're not there to supervise. For birds, keep them in a strong cage that cannot be tipped over by your cat. Ideally, the cage should hang from the ceiling. The bars or wires in the cage should be too small (no larger than half an inch) to allow your cat's paws through, and the cage should be large enough that the bird can feel safe by retreating to the other side. For both birds and rodents, a barrier or box should be available so that the bird or rodent can take refuge if the cat is upsetting them. Fish tanks should have a secure hood and should be seated on a sturdy stand. Goldfish in outdoor ponds should have things to hide under, such as lily pads, and a large enough pond so they can take refuge away from the edges. Netting may be the only way to save them from cats with a knack for fishing.

Cats and birds should never be out and loose in the same room together. Do not allow cats and birds to come in contact. All it takes is one second for the bird to slip out of your arms and take flight, enticing the cat to jump at it and catch it in its mouth. The cat is a predator; the bird is prey. It's instinctual for the cat to want to catch the bird (even if the cat doesn't mean harm and just wants to play). Invariably, cats' teeth puncture birds as they carry them around in their mouths, plus cats have Pasteurella sp. bacteria in their saliva, which can be fatal to birds through bite wounds.

You can, however, train your cat to ignore the birdcage while you're present. Reward your cat for calm behavior near the birdcage by giving him a special treat. Each time he attends to you instead of the bird, give him another morsel. Introduce the cue "Leave it" just before you give the treat. Now when the cat looks at the bird, say, "Leave it," and as soon as he looks at you, give him the treat.

If the cat instead tries to paw at the cage, tell the cat "No!" and firmly hold him. Tell him to leave it, wait until he glances at you, and then give him the treat.

Train Cats to Leave Food Alone

Besides ignoring your other pets, you may want your cat to learn to leave your food alone. The best way to dissuade your cat from grabbing your food off your plate is to teach him not to jump up on counters or tables in the first place. But if he does jump up, you can teach him to leave your food alone by never allowing him to get away with stealing or begging for food. Say "No!" and place him on the floor if he tries. You can also teach him the "leave it" command, as follows:

Put a treat in your hand and show it to your cat before closing your fist over it.
Ignore him as he tries to get the treat from your hand. As soon as he looks away, give him a treat from your other hand.
Continue until he starts to look away immediately. Then introduce the cue “Leave it” just before presenting your hand with the hidden treat.
Next place the treat on the floor or tabletop with your hand over it. Do the same as you did before. He must look away before he can have a treat in its place.
Once he can leave that, place the treat on the floor or tabletop with a piece of screen over it.
Next place some food on the tabletop and walk a short distance away. As soon as he looks at the food, say, "Leave it," and give him a better treat when he turns from the forbidden object to you.

More on Vetstreet.com:

The post How to Train Your Cat to ‘Leave It’ appeared first on Vetstreet.

Learn How to Train Your Cat to Lie Down

Mikkel Becker — Wed, 21 Sep 2022 18:30:09 +0000

As an animal trainer, I enjoy training cats to do simple-yet-unexpected tricks. It’s fun to see the surprise on a person’s face when they see a cat sit or lie down on command. Suddenly, their house cat is an Einstein kitty!

A cat’s ability to learn new tricks is valuable for a variety of reasons, from deepening the cat’s relationship with humans to helping resolve problem behaviors. Fortunately, you don’t have to be a professional to train a cat: Felines are typically willing participants in training when behaviors are broken down into easy-to-learn steps and the cat is rewarded for performing them.

If you and your cat are new to clicker training, begin with a review of training basics, including how to use rewards and marker signals to pinpoint the behavior that’s being rewarded. Once you’ve done that, you can move on to teaching your cat to lie down.

Down, Kitty

“Down” — when the cat moves in to a lying position in response to a command — is an ideal starter trick for cats new to training. Because this is commonly deemed a dog trick, it is impressive and surprising when a feline goes into a down. This trick isn’t just fun, though; down has various real-life applications. It can be used to reinforce resting in designated kitty spaces instead of in other off-limits areas of your home and it can be useful if your cat is prone to dashing through open doors. It also gives your cat a way to interact with people and can be used to replace less desirable behavior like biting hands when playing.

It is important to start with a realistic expectation of what a cat’s down will look like. A cat’s down will likely not exactly mimic the down of a dog. Unlike dogs, who are comfortable plopping themselves onto the floor, many felines prefer to lie down in elevated areas. A cat is also less likely to thrust herself into an immediate down at military pushup pace. Instead, she will more often ease herself into a comfortable lying position at a leisurely pace.

Cats aren’t selective about where and how they lie down because they’re pampered and pompous (at least not most!) — it’s simply part of their nature as both predator and prey. Because down can be a vulnerable position, your cat may prefer following the command on a high, familiar space like a perch, bed or other cat-approved furniture. To make your training go smoothly, teach the down in spaces where your feline is already willing to rest.

Clicker vs. Lure: Two Ways to Train

There are two basic approaches to training a cat to lie down: capturing the down and luring the cat into a down.

Capturing the down. In this hands-off method, you wait for your feline to naturally move into a lying down position. When she does so, mark the behavior (with a click or word) and then reward her. As your cat moves into the down position, give the verbal cue — “down” — and mark and reward as her chest touches the ground. Repeat until your cat readily goes into a down position in anticipation of the reward. As the behavior becomes associated with the cue, the cue can be given earlier, before the cat is about to lie down — for example, when she is stepping onto her bed or perch. With practice, the down cue itself will eventually elicit the behavior.

Luring the cat into the down. This hands-on method is especially useful with felines who are willing to follow a treat or toy. To lure your cat, show her the morsel or small toy you are holding in your clasped fingers or in a closed palm. Begin with the lure near your cat’s nose and slowly lower your hand to the floor at a pace your cat will follow. Sit is the easiest position from which to acquire the down, but the cat can start out in a standing position as well. Your cat may not immediately slide into a down — be ready to reward little steps like her nose moving downward or elbows bending. If your cat stops following the lure, slowly move it back up toward her and show her the hidden item. You may need to upgrade the lure to an even more desirable treat or toy, or you may need to make the training easier by rewarding even minute progress, like the cat remaining in place instead of walking away. Another creative option is to move the lure just below the level of the cat’s elevated space. Your cat may lie down after a few moments to peer over the edge. When she does this, mark and bring the reward up to her. Eventually, you can replace the lure with a hand signal by shaping your hand like it still contains the treat or toy, but with nothing actually inside. Move your hand as before and offer a reward with your other hand when your feline moves into position.

Some cats will learn down in one session, while it make take others several weeks to master. Keep your cat’s training sessions short — 1 to 5 minutes — to hold her interest, and keep the rewards coming. Usually, the more success a cat has with training, the more invested and willing to participate she becomes.

More on Vetstreet:

The post Learn How to Train Your Cat to Lie Down appeared first on Vetstreet.

Training Tips to Help Socialize a Shy Cat

Mikkel Becker — Wed, 21 Sep 2022 18:29:48 +0000

Reward-based training is a simple and effective way to boost your cat’s confidence and strengthen her bond with you. For a shy or cautious cat, though, the benefits of training may be even greater.

Shy cats tend to keep to themselves, particularly in uncomfortable situations — which can include everything from friends visiting your home to a trip to the vet’s office. One downside of this is that when your cat is prone to hiding, it can be difficult to spot the small changes in behavior that may signal a health problem. Your shy cat may also aggress when she feels threatened, and this behavior can make even routine vet visits difficult.

Luckily, a cat doesn’t need to be born bold to become a confident kitty. I have seen shy adult cats learn to be more relaxed around people. Reward-based training can help your cat feel more comfortable around humans, both those she sees often, like your friends, and those who are new to her, like the staff at the vet’s office. Training doesn’t have to be complicated or time-consuming; rewarding everyday behaviors can help foster communication and trust between you and your cat.

Your cat may never become the life of the party, but these simple training strategies may help her to be more comfortable in social situations.

How to Train a Shy Cat

The key to fostering a feline’s comfort relies on two things: allowing your cat to choose when and how she interacts with people and making every interaction as safe and predictable as possible for her. I follow five simple steps to help reserved cats learn to be more confident around humans. Try these with your shy feline and watch her personality bloom.

Step one: Create an environment that makes your cat feel safe and protected. Cats need both high spaces, like those found on cat shelving or cat trees, and hiding areas, such as tunnels, boxes and covered beds, in order to feel safe in your home. Your feline is more likely to relax if she has ample places where she can retreat from perceived dangers. Access to cat-safe quiet areas away from heavy traffic and noises can also help your shy cat manage her anxiety.

Step two: Use only positive reinforcement training. This approach teaches your cat that certain behaviors are rewarded. Clicker training is a simple type of positive reinforcement training; the desired behavior is pinpointed with the clicker and immediately rewarded with something the cat desires. Clicker training teaches your feline that she has a choice, because she does the behavior of her own free will; it can also teach her to associate certain people and behaviors with positive consequences. (Note: Some shy cats may be afraid of the clicker noise — for those cats, you can muffle the clicker by holding it behind your back or you can substitute something quieter, like a ballpoint pen. Another alternative is to use a verbal cue, like “yes” or “good,” to mark the behavior.)

Step three: Find out what motivates your cat and use that as a reward. When your cat does a desired behavior, mark it with the clicker — and immediately follow that with a reward. The reward must be something that is desired by the cat; examples include a treat, a toy or, for very shy cats, a little space. Keep in mind that some of the things that you may think of as a reward, like petting, may be frightening for your cat. Pay attention to your cat’s body language and behavior and pace your interactions accordingly.
Step four: Train behaviors that will have the most benefit for the cat. Rewarding signs of relaxation, confidence or social intent are good starting points with a shy cat. A clickable moment may be as simple as a moment of brief muscle relaxation or forward movement of the body, ears or eyes. Tricks are also highly useful for creating positive, predictable ways your cat can interact with people. Touching a target or hand, making eye contact, going to a spot, sitting, staying or high-fiving are all behaviors that can be taught with relative ease and can be used to help your cat feel more comfortable in social situations.

Step five: Pair frightening things with positive consequences. For instance, if your cat is touch-sensitive, a hand reaching to pet her may be terrifying. Turn petting into a positive by pairing reaching hands with a desirable reward to make the situation less aversive for your cat. The key is to slowly build your cat’s confidence and create a happy expectation of the event — in other words, to teach her that petting is accompanied by a tasty treat or a fun toy. The same strategy can be used for other potentially stressful events like nail trims and grooming.

The more frequently you interact with your cat in a gentle and positive way, the more confident she should become. As her confidence increases, you can use the same principles to expand her comfort zone and introduce her to new people and experiences. The process takes patience and forethought, but it will be worth it, both for you and for your cat.

One last note: If your cat has a pronounced fear and doesn’t respond to the training, seek guidance from your veterinarian, who may refer you to a veterinary behaviorist. There are other options available to help ease your shy kitty out of her shell.

More on Vetstreet:

The post Training Tips to Help Socialize a Shy Cat appeared first on Vetstreet.

Training Your Cat: Clicker Training vs. Lure-Based Training

Mikkel Becker — Wed, 21 Sep 2022 18:29:46 +0000

We tend to think of cats as being too independent — or maybe too smart — for training. But it is precisely this combination of intelligence and self-reliance that can help make training easier. In fact, given the right direction and motivation, a cat’s understanding of cause and effect can make her highly trainable.

Like their larger relatives in zoos, domestic felines learn best through reward-based training. Treats, petting and play can be used to motivate the feline learner. As with dogs, cats are most commonly trained in one of two ways: lure-based training or clicker training. Both methods rely on rewards to motivate the feline, but the means to reach the desired end differs depending on which type of training you choose.

Here’s a simple overview of lure-based training and clicker training, including the benefits and drawbacks of both.

Lure-Based Training

How it’s done: Lure-based training relies on using an object that is significant to the cat, most often food or a toy, to move the cat into a desired position, such as a sit or down, or onto a certain spot, like a mat or bed. Lure-based training often includes the use of marker signals, like a word or a click, to indicate when the cat does the correct behavior. This marker is followed up with a treat. For instance, when teaching a sit, a word like “good” may be used when the cat’s head follows the lure and her back end starts to bend into what eventually becomes a sitting position.

Benefits: Lure-based training is easy for many pet owners to pick up simply by watching a trainer’s example, and little explanation is needed. Most cats also easily catch on to the concept of following the lure. For a cat who is highly motivated to follow a special treat or toy, such as canned cat food in a spoon or a wand toy, lure-based training can produce a nearly immediate response. For cats who appear to constantly question anything they are asked to do, lure-based training can provide concrete, measurable motivation.

Drawbacks: Teaching the behavior relies primarily on holding the lure in the right place in order to generate the desired response. For example, if the lure is held too high, the cat may stand on his hind legs rather than sit. Some pet owners also have difficulty fading the lure and remain reliant upon a food or toy in the hand to get the cat to do the asked-for behavior or trick. To fade the lure, start by removing the treat from the hand and having the cat follow the hand alone, and then substituting a hand signal or voice cue without any treat at all. Adding a hand signal or verbal cue prior to fading the food lure can make it easier to eliminate the lure. Lure-based training also has the potential to make a cat less creative and more reliant upon her human’s guidance. Finally, lures can be more challenging to use when training more complex tricks, like teaching a cat to fetch or turn off a light.

Clicker Training

How it’s done: A marker signal, most often a clicker, is used to pinpoint the exact moment the cat does a desired behavior. The marker signal is followed with a reward. Behaviors that naturally occur, such as a down, may be reinforced in this way and, over time, put on cue. A more complex behavior can also be shaped, or taught in a series of small steps. In some cases, a target stick may be used with the clicker to get specific movement and positioning — for example, when teaching a cat to roll over. Clicker training is generally more hands-off than lure-based training and encourages animals to think out their actions.

Benefits: The precise timing and careful planning of clicker training enables cats to learn more complicated tricks, like turning off the light switch or fetching a particular toy, by breaking them into small, easily mastered steps. Clicker training can also be helpful with fearful or shy cats, as it does not require close contact between human and feline.

Drawbacks: Some cat owners are reluctant to use a clicker for training because they assume that they will need to carry it around with them all the time. But the clicker is used only for teaching new behavior — once the behavior is learned, the clicker can be replaced with a signal, like a word or gesture. Some cats may be fearful of the clicking noise; in this case, quieter options, like a ballpoint pen, can be used in place of the clicker — or you can skip the click entirely and use a verbal cue, like “good” or “yes,” to mark the desired behavior. Some pet owners use the clicker in ways that are not constructive, such as over-clicking and treating the clicker as a toy, not following up every click with a reward or using the click as a form of punishment for unwanted behavior. Any of these uses decreases the clicker’s value and undermines the training. It is important to use the clicker only to mark desired behavior and to follow the click with an immediate reward, in order to reinforce the behavior.

Lure-based training and clicker training can be used used in combination or separately in training, depending on the goal. Whatever style or combination of styles you chose, reward-based training can lead to an increase in communication and bonding between you and your cat.

More on Vetstreet:

The post Training Your Cat: Clicker Training vs. Lure-Based Training appeared first on Vetstreet.