Dog Training Archives - Vetstreet

7 Best Dog Talking Buttons (And Tips for Using Them)

Camryn Rabideau — Mon, 12 Jun 2023 15:35:59 +0000

If you’ve ever wished that your pup could talk, you’re going to love trying out dog talking buttons (also called dog training buttons). All the rage lately thanks to social media, this fun training tool makes it easier than ever to communicate with your furry friends.

Here’s everything you need to know about the benefits of talking buttons for dogs, the best models to buy, and how to train your pup to use them.

Best Dog Talking Buttons

All featured products are chosen at the discretion of the Vetstreet editorial team and do not reflect a direct endorsement by the author. However, Vetstreet may make a small affiliate commission if you click through and make a purchase.

Best Overall Dog Talking Buttons: FluentPet Cat & Dog Buttons
Best Dog Talking Buttons for Beginners: Hunger for Words Talking Pet Starter Set
Best Talking Buttons Mat: Acools Dog Talking Buttons with Waterproof Anti-Slip Button Mat
Best Designed Dog Talking Buttons: MEWOOFUN Dog Buttons
Best Budget-Friendly Dog Talking Buttons: Goplemo Dog Buttons
Best Pre-Recorded Dog Talking Buttons: VocalPups Dog Buttons
Best Potty Button: Hunger For Words Talking Pet Doorbell

7 Best Dog Talking Buttons of 2024

Best Overall Dog Talking Buttons

Our pick: FluentPet Cat & Dog Buttons

Buy at Amazon

FluentPet Dog Buttons is the brand that “Bunny the Talking Dog” uses, and these buttons are some of the best available today. The basic kit includes 12 talking buttons with pre-installed batteries, as well as six non-slip floor tiles and 56 label stickers. Each of the interlocking floor tiles is able to hold up to six buttons, so this set gives you plenty of room to expand as your dog learns new words. It’s easy to record words on each button, and the playback is loud and clear. One thing to note is that the actual buttons themselves are fairly small, which may make them a bit harder for large dogs to use.

Pros

Trusted brand
High-quality audio
Expandable system
Includes floor tiles, stickers, and training guide

Cons

Smaller button size
Higher price point

Best Dog Talking Buttons for Beginners

Our pick: Hunger for Words Talking Pet Starter Set

Buy at Amazon

Buy at Petco

If you want to try out talking buttons without investing too much, this starter set is both simple and affordable. It includes four recordable buttons, each in a different color. All you have to do is hold the small red button on the side to record your desired word. Because the buttons are on the larger side, they’re easy for big dogs to operate, but keep in mind that they don’t come with a floor mat, which means they’ll slip around on hard surfaces. However, you can put them on a rug or silicone mat to keep them in place for your pooch.

Pros

Large buttons
Each button is a different color
Includes training guide
Good price point

Cons

Floor mat and labels sold separately
May need to upgrade once your pet is ready to move beyond this simple set

Best Talking Buttons Mat

Our pick: Acools Dog Talking Buttons with Waterproof Anti-Slip Button Mat

Buy at Amazon

If you’re planning to teach your dog several different words, it’s beneficial to have a floor mat to go with your communication buttons – this will help keep them in the same location and prevent them from shifting when pressed. This set of Acools Training Buttons is a high-quality option that comes with a matching mat, as well as cute button labels to make them relevant to your pet’s needs. It’s simple to record words on each button, and the buttons are designed for small, medium, and large dogs.

Pros

Easy to record
Rubber mat is super durable and anti-slip, waterproof
Mat contains 3.1″ diameter printed circles for up to eight dog buttons

Cons

Does not come with batteries
Buttons may not be as sturdier for larger dogs

Best Designed Dog Talking Buttons

Our pick: MEWOOFUN Dog Buttons

Buy at Amazon

Some talking buttons have a fairly bland design, but the MEWOOFUN Dog Buttons are sleeker with a square shape and matte finish. The buttons are available in packs of two, four, or nine, and they come with a non-slip floor mat as well as both pre-marked and customizable labels. There are four different button colors to help your dog differentiate between them, but they’re a bit harder to press than others, so they may not be the best option for smaller dogs.

Pros

Stylish design
Come in four different colors
Non-slip floor mat adheres to buttons via Velcro
Include both pre-made and customizable labels

Cons

Small dogs may have trouble pressing

Best Budget-Friendly Dog Talking Buttons

Our pick: Goplemo Dog Buttons

Buy at Amazon

This pack of Goplemo Dog Buttons is an affordable option for anyone who wants to try out communication buttons with their dog. Each button is a different color and has a 30-second limit, allowing you to record longer phrases, if desired. The buttons have small non-slip grips on the bottom to keep them from moving around on the floor, but they don’t come with labels or a floor mat. Additionally, each one requires two AAA batteries, which aren’t included.

Pros

Great price point
Includes four buttons
30-second record time
Come in four different colors
Non-slip bottom

Cons

Batteries, floor mat, and labels not included

Best Pre-Recorded Dog Talking Buttons

Our pick: VocalPups Dog Buttons

Buy at Amazon

Most talking buttons for dogs allow you to record the words you want to use, but the VocalPups Dog Buttons come pre-recorded with words like “out,” “play,” “food,” “water,” “mom,” and “dad.” You can buy the buttons individually or in a set of four, and because they’re already recorded, the audio tends to be clearer and louder than other buttons. Anti-slip rubber feet on the bottoms help prevent them from moving around, and the brand also sells floor mats separately.

Pros

Sold individually or in a set
Easy to hear
Anti-slip rubber feet
Video training guide

Cons

Batteries not included
Floor mat sold separately
No option to customize words

Best Potty Button

Our pick: Hunger For Words Talking Pet Doorbell

Buy at Amazon

If you’re looking for a single dog talking button that’s designed to help potty train your pup, the Hunger for Words Talking Pet Doorbell is a top pick. Unlike other buttons, which are meant to be placed on the floor, this button comes with an adhesive strip that lets you mount it to the wall next to the door. This lets your pup press it with their nose or paw. You can either use its pre-recorded bell noise or record a custom word, such as “outside,” and the audio is loud enough to hear if your dog presses the button in another room.

Pros

Two sound options
Loud audio
Mounts to the wall
Good price point

Cons

Loud volume may startle some dogs

What Are Dog Talking Buttons?

Also called communication buttons or training buttons, dog talking buttons have been gaining popularity in recent years. The buttons allow you to record a specific word – such as “outside,” “hungry,” or “play” – on a push button, and your dog learns to press the button to communicate their needs to you.

These buttons have become beloved by pet parents in large part thanks to Bunny the Talking Dog, an adorable Sheepadoodle who went viral on social media for her use of talking buttons; she knows more than 100 words and can even string together phrases!

Besides being super cute, there are several benefits to training your dog to use communication buttons. “Talking buttons help dogs express themselves in a quick way that we readily understand so that you can address their needs or respond,” explains Erin Askeland, Camp Bow Wow’s animal health and behavior expert. “Because this is a training tool, it’s also a fun way to incorporate positive training into you and your dog’s daily life, which is beneficial for mental stimulation, the human-dog relationship, and long-term cognitive health.”

Just keep in mind that dog talking buttons should always be used alongside other training methods. “While these buttons can be a fun learning tool, it is essential that pet parents don’t use them in place of proper training,” says Askeland. “Getting to know your dog’s body language and subtle quirks is an essential part of communication that helps establish a healthy relationship between pet parents and their pets.”

How We Made Our Selections

In addition to speaking with Askeland to gain her insight, we considered several factors when compiling our list:

Design. In order to provide a well-rounded look at each pick, we looked at things such as button shape and size, color options, as well as ease of recording.

Included accessories. Because accessories like floor mats and labels definitely can definitely be beneficial for you and your dog, we made note of which buttons come with which extras (if any).

Ratings and reviews. We also read through dozens of reviews for each product to get a sense of how well they work for real pet parents.

Price. Depending on included accessories, number of buttons, etc., the cost of dog talking button sets can vary. With that in mind, we tried to include a variety of options to suit all budget sizes.

Dog Talking Buttons Buyer’s Guide

To help you select the best option for your pet, there are several factors you’ll want to take into account when shopping for dog talking buttons.

Size. Talking buttons for dogs vary in size—some are as small as 1.5” in diameter, while others are 3” or more. In general, small buttons are best suited for smaller dogs and cats, while large buttons will work better for bigger dogs.

Accessories. Be sure to take a look at what accessories are included with the buttons you’re checking out. Some buttons come with floor mats to help prevent sliding, while others simply have non-slip grips on the back. Other useful accessories include labels for the buttons, as well as training guides that will help you make the most of the tool.

Recording options. You can find communication buttons that allow you to record your own commands, while others come pre-recorded with popular words. The former option allows for more customization in your training, but pre-recorded buttons often have clearer audio.

Durability. Because your dog will be stepping on their buttons, it’s important to select a product that can stand up to being bumped and scratched.

Dog Talking Buttons Training Tips

Training your pup to learn new things can be hit or miss, but when it comes to teaching dogs to talk with buttons, Askeland has a few tips.

Practice patience. While Bunny makes it look easy, it does take quite a bit of training and patience to teach your dog to use talking buttons. “This learning experience requires a lot of time and effort in order to get a solid communication flow, so don’t become too frustrated if you are not seeing results right away,” encourages Askeland.

Lead by example. “The simplest way to start is using the buttons yourself to let your dog hear the word before the action that follows,” explains Askeland. “For example, hitting a button that says ‘treat’ before you offer your dog a treat.” At this stage, you’ll also need to teach your dog how to actually press the buttons using the “touch” command.

Take it slow. “When your dog is ready to use the buttons, start with just one button,” Askeland recommends. “For example, just before you take your pup on a walk, you can encourage [them] to press the ‘walk’ button to build the association of that task of pressing the button, the word from the button, and the actual result of that word. To make the connection initially, this must be consistent.” She recommends working with just one button at a time to make sure your dog understands what you’re teaching them.

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Do Dogs Mean to Be Mean: How To Prevent Dog Bites

The American College of Veterinary Behaviorists — Fri, 07 Oct 2022 19:00:06 +0000

Looking to prevent dog bites? You are in good company. At least 4.5 million Americans are bitten by dogs every year (1). Dogs can be our best friends, our companions and our confidants. But when things go wrong in human-canine interaction, a bite is sometimes the result. One in five dog bites — or about 885,000 — requires medical attention.

National Dog Bite Prevention Week, which takes place in May every year,, seeks to change those statistics. For an informed view on preventing dog bites, we turned to the book Decoding Your Dog: The Ultimate Experts Explain Common Dog Behaviors and Reveal How to Prevent or Change Unwanted Ones by the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists.

As the book explains, stopping a dog from biting starts with understanding the dog. The following is excerpted from the chapter “Do Dogs Mean to Be Mean?”

Is Dog Aggression Always Provoked?

All dogs, however calm or tolerant they may seem, have the potential to bite. That does not make them “mean.” Meanness really does not apply to our canine companions. There is no revenge or malice in dogs; they are merely using canine tools to respond to social situations.

Aggression can occur in response to many different triggers, such as the desire to keep possession of a favorite toy, a response to the approach of an “intruder” in the yard or house, or to a too-vigorous brushing of a matted coat.

But these triggers are not always obvious. Maybe you just didn’t see that unchewed rawhide chip three feet away from the dog under the sofa, or you thought your dog was tolerating the combing because she was standing still for it.

To those who don’t know dogs, and sometimes even to those who do, aggression can indeed appear to be impulsive and unprovoked. However, in the majority of cases, once you understand what sets off an aggressive dog, her behavior becomes foreseeable and avoidable.

The truth is that most aggressive behavior is provoked — at least from the dog’s perspective — and predictable but may not occur every time a dog encounters a specific trigger. It is this lack of effective communication between us and our companion dogs that sometimes makes their behavior seem unpredictable.

Resource guarding is especially difficult for humans to understand. Traditionally, dogs are likely to value and guard food or food-related items, such as rawhide chews or food bowls. But it is important to view “value” from each individual dog’s perspective. Dogs might guard a resting spot or bed, the bathroom trash, even their valuable food-giving owners.

Noticing the provocation, however, can be difficult. It can be challenging to pick up on all the subtle behavioral signals of some aggressive dogs. As discussed earlier, some dog breeds, and individuals within any breed, are rather stoic, or their signaling apparatus (or body language) has been tampered with by breeding, disease, or plastic surgery.

If this describes your dog, it would be wise to schedule an evaluation with a veterinary behaviorist, who can help you by getting more details about the aggression and then offering a diagnosis and a treatment plan. Remember, aggression is not a training problem but rather a problem of how the dog perceives what is happening to her and how she responds to that perception. As a result, aggression needs appropriate intervention to address the specific cause.

We can protect our children and our dogs by being aware of the differences in how they look at the world. A resting or eating dog may not want to be bothered, or hugged and petted, and young children may be unable to read those signals, which can then result in biting.

Prevent Dog Bites: Where To Begin

Even though we all love our dogs, we must acknowledge that they might, in certain situations, bite. In fact, any dog, including the floppy eared family pet you share your bed with, may bite. As with any of life’s risks, the likelihood doesn’t necessarily mean you should not take that chance — if it is outweighed by the benefits. Veterinarians, who must sometimes do unpleasant things, like touch a painful paw, are certainly aware of this. What can you do in day-to-day encounters to prevent aggression and, especially, biting?

Know Your Dogs

Each dog is an individual with her own temperament and sensitivities. Aggressiveness is influenced by physical health as well as the dog’s reactivity, experience, and personality (including genetic temperament). Do you have a reactive or resource-guarding dog or one who is frightened of noises? Consider this when weighing your dog’s risk for aggression and plan accordingly.

Be Aware of Risks

Be aware that the risk of aggression may increase with behavioral maturity. Behavioral maturity occurs later than physical maturity. If your puppy or immature dog seems frightened or nervous in the face of unfamiliar people or situations, there may be an increased chance that she will express that fear through biting when she is a mature adult, at one to three years of age.

Scheduling an appointment with a veterinary behaviorist when things first change will give you the information you need so that you know what to do.

Avoid Biting Triggers

Know, avoid, and lessen your dog’s triggers for biting. This is important if you want to prevent dog bites. An everyday situation might be meaningless to one dog but a grave threat to another. For example, consider what happens when you approach an unchewed rawhide bone lying near your resting dog. While your dog might open one eye at your approach and then go back to sleep, your neighbor’s dog might guard the bone with a growl and a lunge.

Know Canine Body Language

Be aware of canine communication and body language. Dogs usually signal their fear, arousal, and uncertainty. It’s a good idea to watch your dog’s face, eyes, head, tail, and body posture to decipher what she is saying. Generally speaking, it’s not good to assume your dog will accept certain people, dogs, situations, or events. If she seems nervous, take your dog away from the situation as soon as you can.

Understand Canine Provocations

Understand the typical provocations of aggression for all dogs, which include:

Pain
Punishment
Defending oneself
Being disturbed while resting
Physical manipulation, pushing, pulling
Being disturbed while in a denlike area
Being disturbed while on a high-value bed
Defending the home, yard, car, and other territory
Being approached when behind a fence, in a car, or in a crate
Defending high-value resources that are approached, touched, or removed

Other Dog Behavior Books We Like

Here are some other noteworthy books to consider if you want to learn more about canine behavior:

The Other End of the Leash by Patricia McConnell, PhD

How to Train a Rescue Dog by Nate Dunham with Lissette Victoria

Sources:

(1) https://www.forbes.com/advisor/legal/dog-attack-statistics-breed/

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Bad Dog Behavior: Is It a Medical Problem or a Training Issue?

Mikkel Becker — Wed, 21 Sep 2022 18:31:31 +0000

Dogs can’t tell us what they’re feeling, so it can be difficult to determine the right course of action when it comes to resolving bad behavior problems. How do you know if you should take your pet to a trainer — or if you should go straight to your vet?

The best answer is both.

There’s a growing trend of veterinarians and trainers partnering to create the best overall treatment plan for a behavior issue. In certain instances, behavior problems may be caused by underlying medical conditions, such as when an abscessed tooth causes pain, resulting in growling and snapping. Other times, the behavior is rooted in a training issue, like when a dog jumps on people to get their attention.

But, many times, a behavior problem is a complex issue, so it’s important to determine the cause of the aggression first. While behavior modification may work in some pets, other cases may require both medication and training. Case in point: Aggression, which is similar to such human psychiatric disorders as anxiety or depression, is ideally addressed through medication and behavior therapy.

When to Consult a Veterinarian

I first became aware of how medical issues could impact dog behavior when my pug, Bruce, began exhibiting anxiety. Before starting on a behavior modification program, I took him to the veterinarian, who found a painful staph infection in between his footpads. As soon as the condition was treated, his anxiety was gone. This is why seeking help from a vet should always be your first course of action.

Behavior issues are very complex, and some bad behavior can start out as a medical issue and then turn into a habit, which needs to be treated on multiple levels. An example of this is aggression that stems from an abscessed tooth. At first, the dog lashes out because he is pain, but then he eventually realizes that his behavior gets people to move away from him in any situation. In order to fix the problem, a vet needs to treat the tooth, and a trainer needs to work with the dog to find alternatives to his aggression.

When to Consult a Certified Dog Trainer

Although some poor manners — pulling on a leash, jumping on people, stealing food off the table or chasing the cat — may appear to be obvious training issues, others may actually stem from a medical condition, so you should still check in with a vet first.

A classic example: I once consulted with the owner of a Pomeranian puppy who was able to hold her bladder for only an hour or less. I referred them to a vet, and it turned out that the dog had a urinary tract infection. Once the puppy was put on medication, I could successfully housetrain her.

Following a dog training consultation, I send a note to the client’s veterinarian to let them know what types of behaviors I observed, along with an outline of my training plan. I also ask for suggestions from the vet, as well as an update on any medical treatment plan that the vet has deemed necessary.

If you are unsure about whether your dog requires a medical professional or a trainer, always see your veterinarian first to rule out any medical issues. The vet can then refer you to a trusted trainer who can craft the best approach for tackling your dog’s behavior problem.

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Dog Taking Over Your Bed? Training Can Help You Both Sleep Soundly

Mikkel Becker — Wed, 21 Sep 2022 18:30:59 +0000

Q. I love having my dog sleep near me, but he takes up the entire bed. Is it possible to train him to stay on his own side of the bed so that I can sleep more comfortably?

A. Just over half of the dog-owning population sleep with their pets, making bed hogging a big deal for pet lovers who choose to share the mattress with their canines. And it’s not only small dogs that get to sleep in people beds — in one study, 41 percent of dogs sleeping with their owners were medium-sized, and one out of every three were large breeds. The bigger the dog, the more bed space he takes up, although small dogs can stretch out surprisingly far for their compact size. Add another human to the equation and multiple canines sharing the sheets, and it’s no surprise that pet parents end up with only a sliver of the bed to sleep on.

Check With Your Vet First

Before you invite Fido into your bed, talk to your veterinarian; there can be risks involved with sharing sleeping spaces with pets. Zoonotic diseases, or those passed from pet to human, are more easily spread through close contact, such as sharing kisses or sleeping areas. Immunocompromised individuals, such as the elderly or small children, are especially vulnerable to these illnesses and should not sleep with a pet in their bed. Be sure to keep your pet on your veterinarian’s recommended schedule for all required vaccinations and parasite control, and follow up with any other medical care recommended by your veterinarian.

Control Bed Hogging

Once your canine has been cleared for cosleeping, the next step in stopping his bed hogging is to designate a small portion of the bed as your dog’s sleeping space, rather than allowing him to plop down and spread out wherever he pleases. The easiest way to do this is to clearly mark an area of your bed as his sleeping space by using a pet bed, towel or blanket. Teach your dog to “target” this area and lie down there by practicing with the designated blanket on the ground first. (Watch Mikkel’s video on teaching your dog to target a mat and lie down.)

Once your pet is readily targeting the mat, blanket or pet bed, and is lying down when asked, place his sleeping area on top of your bed. Bring your pet up on the bed and work with him on targeting this same area, just like you practiced on the floor. Keep in mind that when you first move the targeted sleeping area to a new place, your dog may need a little guidance. Toss treats onto the sleeping space to lead him to lay down, or reward him for small steps such as simply putting a paw on the sleeping area.

As soon as your pet starts targeting the mat and lying down as readily as he did on the ground, add longer-duration down stays on the mat. This is convenient to practice at night when you are reading a book or relaxing in bed and can intermittently toss a treat to him on his sleeping area or simply offer him praise and petting. If your dog moves off his marked sleeping area and sprawls out on the bedspread, gently guide him back onto the sleeping area with the “go to your mat” cue. Using reward-based target training to teach this leads your dog to associate his sleeping zone with wonderful things, such as treats and praise; this, in turn, teaches him to love lying in this area, making it less likely he will want to move off his designated space.

Zoned for Pets

Having your pet’s sleeping area located at the foot of your bed may be most conducive for deep sleep. But if your pet has taken on the job of cuddle buddy or if he is more dependent on you and needs close physical proximity, you can move his sleeping area closer to the head of the bed, where he can easily receive the valued reinforcement of petting and close contact for staying in his designated sleeping zone. No matter where you let your pooch snooze, it is important to be consistent about where your dog can lounge; he needs to understand that he is allowed to sleep in your bed only as long as he stays in his own clearly marked zone, wherever that may be.

With a clearly marked and heavily rewarded pet sleeping zone, you can safely and comfortably share the sheets with your pet — and get a good night’s sleep.

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Dog Training 101: Choosing the Right Class

Kim Campbell Thornton — Wed, 21 Sep 2022 18:30:59 +0000

Do you want to keep your dog for life?
Of course, you do! To help him become your BFF, take him to training class. Whether your dog is going to be your
companion on the couch or travel the world with you, he — and you — can benefit
from training.

Training classes help ensure that your dog has basic good manners in
public, and they strengthen the bond between you and your dog. A training class sets you both up for a lifetime of learning: You can develop a foundation for teaching your dog, and he can learn how
to learn from you. In addition, training classes can be a valuable resource when you want to build on his skills to become
involved in dog sports, therapy dog visits or other fun activities.

One note though: Group classes aren’t always the answer for every dog or dog owner. In some cases, you may
want to work one-on-one with a trainer to resolve specific issues with
your dog. And always be sure to talk to your vet about any behavioral issues, as she will know if there could be a medical component to the
problem or if you should seek out a veterinary behaviorist for more
advanced treatment.

How to Find the Right Trainer

The best trainers not only understand
dog behavior, they are also good at teaching and motivating people. They don’t
rely on a single style of training but have a whole bag of tricks they can draw
on to teach dogs with different learning styles.

Anyone can print up business cards saying
he or she is a dog trainer, but certifications from organizations such as The Association of Professional Dog Trainers, the Karen Pryor Academy for Animal
Training & Behavior, The Academy for Dog Trainers or the International
Association of Animal Behavior Consultants can help you find a trainer who uses
humane methods and positive reinforcement. “These organizations require trainers to have continuing
education to keep their certifications,” Vetstreet trainer Mikkel Becker says. “Training is always
evolving, so it’s important to have someone who keeps up with the latest
concepts.”

To find a trainer, check the websites
of the above organizations for members in your area. Seek out recommendations
from friends or relatives who have well-trained dogs. Veterinarians, groomers
and other pet professionals may also be able to refer you to good trainers.

When you find a trainer you think suits you, ask to observe a class or two before signing up. The trainer should be
patient and creative in working with students, and all the participants should
appear to be having a good time. Avoid trainers who use harsh or inhumane
methods or who yell at dogs or people. And don’t be afraid to talk to people in the class and get their feedback, too.

The Basics of Training

Your puppy’s peak learning period is
from 3 to 14 weeks of age. Of course, he can learn well after that age,
but there’s no reason to let that time go to waste. A puppy kindergarten class
will help you take advantage of that period when he’s soaking up new
information and set his paws on the road to good behavior. Ideally, you’ll be able to enroll your
new pup in a class geared toward his age as early as 10 weeks. He’ll need to have
had at least one series of vaccinations before getting started and should be exposed only to other puppies and dogs who have also been vaccinated. Be sure to get the go-ahead from your veterinarian before exposing your puppy to other dogs or enrolling him in a puppy kindergarten class.

Puppy kindergarten classes offer a
great opportunity for your puppy to socialize with other dogs of all sizes and
breeds, as well as with new people. He will also learn basic behaviors, such as sit,
stay, down, come, leave it and loose-leash walking. Trainers should also deal
with issues like house-training, nipping and jumping up. Expect this class to
last four to six weeks. You may also want to look for some fun drop-in classes for puppy
playtime during the week.

By the time he is 6 months old, your
puppy may be ready to move on to more formal obedience training. This type of class
will reinforce what he learned in puppy kindergarten and sharpen his skills. Dogs are starting to head into
adolescence at this age, which can be a rocky time for owners. A good trainer
will help you understand what to expect and how to hopefully head off some problem behaviors.

Types of Training Classes

Once your dog has completed his puppy training, he should have the basics down, but
that’s no reason for him — or you — to stop learning. If you continue teaching him
things throughout his life, you’ll help him stay mentally sharp and hopefully out of
trouble. “You need to find a class where you can problem-solve and
apply what you learn in real life and in different situations,” Becker advises.

The following are some
types of classes that may be offered by trainers in your area for adult dogs. It’s always a good idea to check with your vet before starting any new activities with your dog, especially activities that involve vigorous exercise.

AKC’s Canine Good Citizen: Canine Good Citizen training classes teach the basics your dog needs to be safe and comfortable in
public and then test your dog on it. The AKC has also just introduced Urban Canine Good Citizen for teaching and testing city skills for urban dogs.

Therapy dog classes: Teach your dog the skills he needs
to make visits
to nursing homes, hospitals, schools and other facilities.

Small dog classes: Focus on ways to handle and train small
dogs, taking
into account their size and personality.

Dog sports: These classes teach the basics of sports such as agility, herding, nose work, rally, Treibball, tracking and other sports.

Human sports: These classes can help both of you participate in standup paddleboarding, kayaking, running, hiking, camping, skijoring or another activity with your dog.

General fitness classes: Fun and safe ways to
include your dog in
your workout and give him a workout as well. These can even include dog yoga.

Training focusing on a specific situation: There are classes to help get a dog ready for a new baby or deal with other challenges.

Tricks and games: Focus on fun skills, such as roll over, sit
up, shake,
ring a bell and jump through a hoop.

One-off, drop-in classes: These often focus on a single behavior or command, such
as come, stay,
no jump or loose-leash walking.

More on Vetstreet:

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Dog Training 101: Essential Tools You’ll Need

Mikkel Becker — Wed, 21 Sep 2022 18:30:59 +0000

You’re all ready to welcome a new puppy or dog into your home — including working with him on his manners. Before he comes home, get your training supplies organized so you’re ready to start training on day one.

Here are my essential dog-training tools, plus a few extra items you might want to have in your arsenal. Happy training!

Basic Tools for Training Your Dog

Clicker. A clicker can be used to mark desired behavior, both in response to a cue and when it occurs naturally. Clickers come in a variety of shapes and styles, including handheld ones and those with wrist straps. Some leashes even come with built-in clickers. There are also clicker apps for your smartphone and clickers designed for training multiple dogs, with different distinct sounds for each pooch.

Target stick. A target stick can be helpful for teaching basic behaviors like walking nicely on leash or complex tricks like spin or bow. Targets vary from a simple, fixed-length stick to something fancier, like a stick with a built-in clicker or one that collapses for easy storage. A serving spoon or wooden spoon can also be an easy DIY target — or you can skip the equipment altogether and teach your dog to touch and follow a hand target.

Treats. Rewards keep your dog interested and motivated. Treat preference will vary depending upon the individual canine, but in general, soft, meaty treats are canine favorites. Treats should be small, around the size of a pencil eraser or a blueberry. Some treats come pre-sized for training while others may be broken apart or cut down to size prior to training.

Portable mat. A portable mat or bed provides a safe space for your dog to settle, no matter where he is. A foldable, washable bed, mat or blanket is easy to transport and ideal for outings. Varieties with a sticky bottom tend to provide greater stability on slick surfaces.

Leashes. Training leashes vary in length, typically between four and six feet. Ideally, the leash is long enough to allow slight slack when your dog stays close to you during walks (rather than being pulled tight all the time). A waist-clip leash enables you to keep your hands free during training sessions. Store your dog’s leashes in easy access locations, such as on hooks near the door.

Collar and harness. A flat collar holds your dog’s ID tag, which is important if he gets out on his own. While you can also clip a leash to a flat collar, a front-clip harness is a better option for most dogs, since it can help deter pulling and make it easier for you to guide your dog’s movement. For difficult-to-control dogs, a head halter can be a useful option. (Note: Corrective collars are not recommended for training.)

Long line. When your dog is ready to practice behaviors like long-distance stays and come when called, a long line is a safe and simple alternative to being off leash. Long lines also allow for exploration during training breaks and extra room to walk out for activities like scent detection. Standard long lines vary from 15 to 30 feet.

Barriers. Crates, pet gates, pet pens and playpens can be useful if you need to contain your dog in a certain area for situations like house training or chewing management. A barrier can also be helpful for keeping your pooch away from problem areas like stairs or the front door.

More Options to Add

Training carryall. Consider designating a bag or storage container to hold your dog’s training equipment; this makes it easily accessible and readily transportable. Include a collapsible water bowl, treats, toys, portable bedding and comfort items for outings.

Toys. Play and toys are excellent rewards to use for playful canines in training. The best types of toys depend upon what’s interesting to your specific canine. Keep his favorites on hand as rewards for a job well done.

Treat bag. Training pouches provide a simple way to keep treats on hand to immediately reward your dog when desired behavior occurs. Treat pouches vary in size and attachment style, and may be made with neoprene or other easy-clean materials. Some pouches have extra pockets with zippers and Velcro to contain other essentials, like cleanup bags and your keys and cellphone. In a pinch, a fanny pack or vest with extra pockets can work as a wearable treat holder.

Food puzzles. Food puzzles provide your dog with physical and mental exercise, which can help deter unwanted behaviors. They can also help your dog learn to relax and settle when he’s in his spot or crate.

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Dog Training A-to-Z: Brief Glossary of Terms

Mikkel Becker — Wed, 21 Sep 2022 18:30:59 +0000

You’ve found a dog trainer you like and you’re excited to be working with her — but then she recommends clicker training or variable reinforcement or redirection and you have no idea what she’s talking about. Trainer Mikkel Becker can help: She’s defined some of the most commonly used dog training terms, so you can communicate successfully with your trainer and help teach your dog to be a well mannered pooch.

A

Appeasement gestures: Behaviors a dog uses to ask for space or to present himself as nonthreatening. Appeasement gestures may include scratching, yawning, licking lips, play bows, turning head or body away, sniffing the ground, lifting up a paw, slowing down movement, freezing or a submissive grin. These signals are a normal part of dog interaction, but in some situations, they may be signs of stress.

B

Barrier frustration: Behavior, particularly barking and lunging, that occurs when a dog is prevented by a barrier from reaching a stimulus. The barrier can be a fence or leash or anything else that blocks the dog from accessing whatever it is that is exciting or arousing him (another dog, for example).

Bite inhibition: A dog’s ability to control the amount of pressure when mouthing an object. Lack of bite inhibition may be an indicator of aggression. Indications of a dog who does not have good control over his bite may include pressure that causes bruising, bleeding or deep punctures; multiple bites in an incident; grabbing and shaking an object; or biting down and refusing to let go.

C

Capture: Marking and rewarding a naturally occurring behavior, such as sitting or lying down, as the dog is doing it. Once a behavior is captured, marked and rewarded, the dog learns to associate the behavior with the reward. This is the first step in teaching a dog to do a behavior on cue.

Classical conditioning: Repeated pairings of a neutral stimulus with an unconditioned stimulus generates the unconditioned response, or one which requires no specific training. For example, the smell of food (an unconditioned stimulus) may cause a dog to salivate (the unconditioned response). Over time, the dog may learn to associate the sound of a wrapper or can opener (a neutral stimulus) with the food and may begin to salivate when he hears the noise (the unconditioned response). Eventually, the can opener or wrapper sound becomes a conditioned stimulus, one that elicits a consistent response.

Clicker training: A form of positive reinforcement training that uses a signal, most commonly a clicker, to pinpoint correct behavior. The signal is immediately followed by a desirable reward, such as a treat, a toy or an opportunity to play. The signal helps the dog identify which behavior is earning him the reward.

Click: The action of using a marker (most often a clicker) to pinpoint a desired behavior. May also be used to describe the sound the clicker makes.

Competing motivation: A stimulus or situation that causes conflict between what the dog desires and what the human desires from the dog. An example of this is a dog who is trained to reliably come when called not returning to his person at the dog park, because he is distracted by people and other dogs.

Compound stressors: Events that increase a dog’s stress level and cause him to be more on edge and prone to be reactive or upset.

Conflicted: When a dog simultaneously wants to do something and is afraid to do it. For example, a dog can be conflicted when approaching someone new: He wants to approach to smell and investigate but is afraid of the person reaching his or her hands out or bending over to pet him.

Correction: An action that stops or punishes a dog from doing an unwanted behavior. For example, a jerk on the leash. Corrections are a form of punishment and as such are not recommended as a training strategy. A number of problems, including increased anxiety, can be associated with the use of correction as a training technique.

Counter conditioning: The process of changing a dog’s emotional reaction to a situation from negative to positive. This is done by gradually exposing the dog to the situation in a way that does not upset him while pairing the situation with a desirable reward. The goal is to create a positive association with the situation. An example of this type of scenario is encountering another dog on a walk. Through counter conditioning, the dog can be taught that the approach of another dog is the signal for a treat, rather than the signal for uncontrolled barking and lunging.

Criteria: The standard by which a pet owner judges a behavior or the standard used to decide which behavior is acceptable and which is unacceptable. Criteria can be adjusted as needed during training in order to enable the dog to successfully learn the correct behavior.

Cue: Signal given to a dog to elicit a desired behavior. “Cue” and “command” are traditionally synonymous, but the word “command” is not commonly used in reward-based training, as it has a connotation of using force to make a dog do something. “Cue” is most often used to refer to a training situation where a dog is asked to perform a behavior and is rewarded for his success.

D

Default behavior: Any behavior a dog does when he is uncertain of what else to do, particularly when he is excited or overstimulated. This may include jumping, barking or pawing. Through training, pet owners can replace an unacceptable default behavior like jumping with an appropriate default behavior like a sit or down stay.

Desensitize: Getting a dog used to a scenario that causes him distress by gradually presenting the situation in a manner that does not upset the dog.

Distraction(s): Sounds, smells, sights and other stimuli that detract from a dog’s ability to remain focused or perform what’s being asked. A low-distraction environment is ideal for training.

Dominance: A dynamic, fluid relationship a dog has with another dog in a specific scenario. Dominance is not an innate personality trait but rather a means of getting preferential access to resources, including food, sleeping or resting areas, and mates. Dominance can change with different variables, including the dogs present and the resource in question. Training methods based on the notion that owner dominance is the key to good behavior often rely on fear tactics, intimidation and pain to coerce dogs to comply. This can lead to an increased risk of aggression and bites. In many cases, dogs who are labeled as “dominant” are actually fearful, insecure and conflicted. Frequently, these dogs require a behavior intervention by a veterinary behaviorist or veterinarian working in combination with a certified professional dog trainer.

E

Extinction: Ending a behavior by removing reinforcement. For example, a dog barks to get his person’s attention; if the person ignores the dog while he is barking, removing the reward of attention, that behavior ceases to be rewarding and the dog will stop barking. Extinction does not require punishment; instead, it relies on removing reinforcement of unwanted behavior.

Extinction burst: When previously reinforced behavior no longer works to get the desired reward, pet owners may see a surge of stronger, more intense behavior as the dog makes one last effort to get the reinforcement he seeks. A dog who has been rewarded for barking may bark with more gusto when he realizes that he’s being ignored. It is important to note that when a behavior is no longer reinforced, it can sometimes get worse — and more intense — before it fades away.

F

Fading the lure: The process of taking the lure out of the training so the dog learns to do the requested behavior on another cue, such as a hand signal or word. Fading the lure teaches the canine to do the behavior without being dependent upon a treat being in the trainer’s hand. To fade the lure, certain tricks can be used, such as keeping a treat in the hand doing the luring but rewarding with a treat given with the other hand. From there, progress to holding the hand shaped like it has a treat but with no treat inside. Next, gradually decrease the size of the hand movement needed to cue the behavior or shift the behavior to a new cue.

Fear-free or fearless vet visits: A low-stress approach popular in the veterinary community and other associated practices, like boarding, grooming and training, in which handling, interactions and procedures are done in a manner designed to keep the dog as calm as possible. Strategies include using handling and approaches that are less likely to induce fear, changing the environment, using medications when necessary and offering rewards to encourage willing cooperation from the dog. In every case, the goal is to keep the experience as positive as possible.

Flooding: A training approach sometimes used to force the dog to endure the situation in order to overcome any fears he may have. Though the goal is to overcome the urge to flee or fight to get away, it often causes a dog to freeze, flee or fight to get away. This extremely controversial tactic can cause major problems, including an increase in anxiety or aggression.

Functional analysis, or the ABC of a behavior: Functional analysis looks at three components of behavior, which are antecedent, behavior and consequence. Behavior issues can by analyzed using this approach, starting with what elicits the behavior. For a behavior like jumping on visitors, the antecedent might be a person coming through the door. The behavior is what the dog does, such as whining, jumping up and putting paws on people’s arms and legs. Finally, the consequence is what happens to the dog when he jumps up, like being petted by the visitor. The ABC analysis can help identify both the problem and the solution — in this example, the petting is reinforcing the jumping, because the dog is being rewarded for his behavior.

G

Generalize: A behavior is considered generalized when a dog can reliably be asked to perform the specific behavior in a variety of different contexts. For example, a dog may consistently respond to a request to sit inside the house, but this behavior may not be as reliable in a different area, such as the backyard or dog park. Dogs generalize to a certain degree, but for behaviors to be reliably performed anywhere, they need to be practiced in a wide range of circumstances.

Go to your spot: A dog who is taught to go to his spot (or station) learns to go to a specific area and wait there until he is released. A typical spot is a dog bed, a mat, a crate or a designated space in the home (the mudroom or laundry room, for example).

H

Habituate: To become accustomed to a specific situation through repeated exposures. A dog may alert at a noise, for instance, but after hearing the noise repeatedly, he may become indifferent to it and begin to ignore it. This type of learning occurs naturally and doesn’t require a structured training plan. (See also: sensitize.)

I

Interrupt: To turn a dog’s focus away from an unwanted behavior as an intervention to stop the unwanted behavior. From there, the dog can be redirected to an acceptable behavior. An interruption does not need to be loud or sudden; a slight shuffle of the feet or a quiet clap is ideal.

L

Learned helplessness: When a dog learns that no matter what he does he cannot escape from an aversive situation and gives up trying. Learned helplessness is a negative, detrimental emotional state that has been associated with anxiety and depression.

Low-stress handling: See fear-free or fearless vet visits.

Lure-based training: Using something that a dog is willing to follow (most commonly food) to guide the dog into a desired position (a sit, for example). Once the dog is in the desired position, the lure is used as a reward. A lure can be a treat held in the hand, food on the end of a spoon, a toy or any other object that a dog will follow as it is moved.

M

Management: Controlling the environment so that the dog doesn’t have an opportunity to rehearse an unwanted behavior. For example, a management strategy for a puppy who chews on furniture is to keep him in a gated, dog-proofed area away from furniture.

Mark: To use a specific signal at the moment a desired behavior occurs to indicate an acceptable behavior. (See also: marker.)

Marker: A stimulus that pinpoints the behavior the dog did to earn a reward. The most common markers are either a clicker or a specific word, such as “good” or “yes.” The marker should be used at the exact moment the behavior occurs. For example, when teaching a sit, the marker should be used as soon as the dog’s bottom touches the ground. The same marker should be consistently used by every member of the family or household and should always be immediately followed by a reward.

Motivated: When a dog’s behavior is influenced by something he wants and is willing to work for. A dog who is motivated by games of fetch is both willing to play the game and willing to do what he’s asked in order to get access to the game, such as sit before the ball is thrown.

N

Negative reinforcement: Use of an aversive or undesirable consequence to teach a specific behavior. An example is the use of a shock collar to prevent jumping or barking.

O

Operant conditioning: Increase or decrease in certain behaviors based on the associated consequences of the behavior. For instance, a dog may learn to be cautious of the cat after he gets swiped across the nose. Or the dog may learn that when he stalks the cat, a game of chase ensues. The quadrants of learning (positive reinforcement, negative reinforcement, positive punishment, negative punishment) fall under the heading of operant conditioning.

P

Positive reinforcement: Use of positive, desirable or pleasurable consequences to teach a behavior. An example is offering a dog a reward, such as a treat or toy for an acceptable behavior.

Punishment: Use of aversive stimuli to decrease or change a behavior. Punishment has a variety of negative consequences. Frequent use of punishment may lead the dog to fear his handler. Other unintended negative outcomes may be an escalation of the problem behavior or an increase in aggression.

Predatory behavior: Behavior that mimics hunting, capturing and consuming prey. Most dogs exhibit only minimal predatory behavior, though certain breeds retain only pieces of the predation sequence. For example, herding breeds retain the “stalk and chase” portion of the predation sequence but may not bite or engage in any takedown behaviors, as this would deter them from doing their job of herding dogs without harming.

Predatory drift: When a dog’s behavior shifts from acceptable play behavior to predatory behavior. This sometimes occurs during interactions between large and small dogs; the smaller dog squeals or runs away in fright, causing the larger dog to react to it as a prey dog. Predatory drift is one reason dog parks and doggy day cares typically maintain separate play areas for large and small dogs.

Premack principle: A less predictable behavior is made more predictable by rewarding it with a behavior of higher desirability. For example, this could mean rewarding a dog for heeling (the less predictable behavior) by releasing him to investigate a smell (the more desirable behavior). The dog learns that in order to be released, he must heel first, which makes that a more predictable behavior.

Prompt: Using extra reminders, such as pointing, treats or bigger gestures, to elicit a desired behavior when the dog fails to respond to the initial cue.

Push, drop, stick: Shorthand way to know if a dog is ready for the next step in training. Put the dog through five trials of a desired behavior. If the dog can correctly do the behavior four or five times, push to the next level of difficulty. If he gets it right two or fewer times, drop to a previous, easier level. If he gets it right three out of five times, stick to that level.

R

Rate of reinforcement: The frequency with which the dog is rewarded. The rate of reinforcement can be determined by counting how many rewards a dog is given in 60 seconds and dividing 60 by the number of rewards given. If the dog is given three treats in 60 seconds, the rate of reinforcement is one every 20 seconds. Dogs who are new to training should be kept at a higher rate of reinforcement (something close to 10 treats per minute) to keep them interested in the training.

Reactive: Acting out in order to ward off or escape a stimulus, for example, other dogs or people. Reactive dogs may be more tense and worked up when separated from the stimulus by a barrier or a fence. Reactive behavior includes lunging, barking, spinning, jumping, straining on hind legs and growling. Reactivity may also be associated with aggressive tendencies; a reactive dog may escalate from warning behavior to actual snaps or bites. (See also: barrier frustration.)

Redirect: To shift a dog’s focus from an unwanted behavior to a desirable behavior. If a dog is chewing on something forbidden (a shoe or book or sofa cushion), he can be redirected to a proper chew toy. He can then be rewarded for chewing an appropriate toy, which reinforces the acceptable behavior.

Reinforcement, reward(s): A consequence the dog finds pleasurable and desirable. Reinforcement and rewards are learner dependent; some dogs will do what they are asked in return for a treat, while others may be motivated by a special toy or an extra session of play. Reinforcement and rewards are also contextual; what is reinforcing or rewarding in one situation may not be in another. For instance, a dog may find petting to be rewarding at home but may require a different reward at the dog park.

Resource guarding: When a dog is protective of his valued possessions. Common objects for resource guarding include food bowls or food puzzles and valued toys, but a dog may also guard resting spaces, rooms, people or other items the dog finds that are of value to him, including seemingly valueless things like wrappers or Kleenex. Guarding behavior can progress from warnings of unease, like freezing or snarling, to more aggressive behaviors like snapping or biting.

Response substitution or differential reinforcement of an incompatible behavior: Training that teaches a dog to replace an unacceptable behavior with one that is incompatible with that behavior. As an example, a dog who lunges on leash may be asked to make eye contact with a trainer, because eye contact is incompatible with lunging at another dog.

S

Scavenger hunt, treasure hunt: Hiding treats, food or toys inside or outside for the dog to find. A scavenger hunt may be used as an alternative to a food puzzle. For example, kibble can be scattered on the grass rather than served in a bowl.

Sensitize: To become more sensitive, alert, fearful or reactive to a specific situation through repeated exposures. For example, a noise may initially cause a dog to startle, but after hearing the noise repeatedly, he may progress to shaking and stress panting when he hears it. (See also: habituate.)

Setting events: Conditions in a dog’s life that make it more likely that the dog will act in a certain manner. For example, a dog who doesn’t get enough exercise may be more wound up and hyper around guests.

Shaping: The process of teaching a dog a complex behavior by breaking it down into simple steps. The simple behaviors are trained in a gradual progression, with each new step moving the dog closer to the goal behavior. (See also: successive approximation.)

Socialization: The process by which a puppy learns about the world. The prime socialization period of a puppy is from about 8 to 12 weeks of age but can extend from about 3 to 16 weeks of age. A puppy’s experiences during this time can influence his perception and reaction to the variety of people and situations he will encounter as he grows.

Stimulus control: When a cue elicits a predictable and reliable response from a dog. For example, when a dog is asked to sit, he does so every time under a variety of different conditions.

Stress: When discussing dogs, stress is frequently used as a synonym for distress. Dogs can experience stress for a number of reasons, from lack of enough exercise or mental stimulation to unpredictable and punishment-based interactions with humans. Stress can be related to environmental and life situations as well, such as moving, losing a family member or the arrival of a new pet. If a dog is exhibiting signs of stress, it is important to address them as early as possible.

Stress signals: Behavior and body language indicative of escalating tension and anxiety, such as barking and whining or pacing and panting. Stress signals may begin with mild avoidance and progress to more extreme anxiety and panic.

Submission: Strategy for interacting with a person or another dog to create harmony and goodwill. Signs of submission can be subtle (a dog holding his ears slightly back in greeting) or overt (a dog rolling on his back in front of another dog). (See also: appeasement gestures.)

Successive approximation: Small steps that are used to reach a more complex goal or behavior. (See also: shaping.)

Systematic desensitization: Training plan designed to change a dog’s response to an upsetting scenario by breaking it into small pieces that do not trigger a fear response in the dog. The goal is to teach the dog to tolerate the situation without getting upset or anxious.

T

Target: Teaching a dog to touch a certain part of himself to an object or area. For example, touching his nose to a person’s hand. Targeting can be used to get a dog to move willingly from one place to another. It can be used to teach a new behavior, such as a spin. Targeting can also help dogs to overcome fear of certain objects; a dog can be taught to target a pair of nail clippers as a way of reducing stress at the groomer’s.

Threshold: A way of describing a dog’s emotional state in a certain situation. A dog who is under threshold is tolerant and relaxed. A dog who is at threshold is mildly stressed, while a dog who is over threshold is anxious and reactive.

V

Variable schedule of reinforcement: A variance in the amount of time or number of behaviors required for a dog to a reward. A variable schedule keeps the dog excited about and invested in the training.

W

Warning signals: Behaviors used by a dog to communicate discomfort with a situation. These can include freezing, growling, barking or snapping. These signals are used to warn a person or another dog to slow down and back off. It is important not to punish warning signals, because they are indicators of the dog’s discomfort; instead, the situation needs to be addressed in order to prevent a bite or a fight.

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Dog Training A to Z: Brief Glossary of Tools

Mikkel Becker — Wed, 21 Sep 2022 18:30:59 +0000

Dog training has its own language, and its own set of tools. When your trainer suggests that you get your dog a mat or a crate, or that you work with him on a longline, what is she talking about? Trainer Mikkel Becker is here to help: She has defined some of the most commonly used dog training tools recommended by trainers. With these handy devices, your dog will be well-mannered in no time.

B

Back clip harness: Harness on which the leash attachment is located over the dog’s back. This type of harness is typically comfortable and easy for a dog to adjust to, but it offers less control over the dog’s movements and can exacerbate pulling.

C

Cavity toys: See food puzzles.

Clicker: Tool used to mark or pinpoint a desired behavior with a clicking noise. There are a variety of clickers, from the standard box clicker, which makes a sudden, sharp noise, to more muted versions (like a ballpoint pen) for dogs that are more sensitive to sound.

Crate, kennel: Box-like shelter for a dog. Crates come in a variety of designs, including hard plastic, wire and soft-sided. Some crates are designed to fold up for easy storage.

D

Dog pen: Dog containment area created with fencing, such as exercise or X-pens or baby gates, in a play pen-like style. Dog pens can be used to prevent destructive behavior or to facilitate potty training. A dog run is an example of an outdoor dog pen.

F

Food puzzle: Toy designed to hold food or chews. The dog removes the food by using his teeth, tongue, paws and mouth to manipulate the toy. Food puzzles require the dog to work for his food, which provides needed mental and physical stimulation.

Front clip harness: This type of harness has a leash attachment at the center of a dog’s chest. This allows the pet owner to gently control the dog’s movements and can help hinder pulling.

G

Gate: Portable gate or fence that can be used as a barrier to keep a dog confined to a specific area or away from an off-limits space. These may be marketed as baby gates or dog gates.

H

Harness: Alternative to a collar. Like a collar, a harness has a hook for the dog’s leash, as well as a place to put his ID tags. Many trainers believe that a harness is gentler than a collar, especially for small dogs or brachycephalic dogs, who can have their airways more easily damaged by a collar.

Head halter: A walking tool. The head halter consists of two parts: a section that fits around the dog’s neck like a collar and an attached piece that fits over the dog’s nose and wraps around his muzzle. The leash attaches under the dog’s chin area.

L

Leash: A fixed length of material with a clip at one end, which attaches to a collar or harness, and a handle at the other end for a person to hold. A fixed-length leash is one that does not expand or retract; commonly, a fixed-length leash is 4- to 6-feet long.

Lure: A stimulus that a dog will willingly follow. Treats are the most commonly used lure, but toys are another useful type of lure.

Long-lasting chews: These are chews that require extensive effort on the dog’s part to eat; they take a long time to consume. Dental chews, such as some of those with C.E.T. enzymes to help break down excess plaque, can fall into this category.

Longline: Leash available in a variety of lengths ranging from 8-feet long to upwards of 40-feet long. A longline allows the dog the freedom of being off leash while preventing him from running away, and can be used for training or play.

M

Mat: Similar in appearance to a cushion or blanket, a dog mat is a designated place to rest. Mat training teaches the dog to go to his mat when he is asked — for example, the dog can be taught to go to his mat, rather than begging at the table during a meal. A mat is portable and can offer a dog a familiar place to rest in unfamiliar surroundings, such as the vet’s office or a friend’s home.

R

Retractable leash: Leash with a handheld release that allows it to extend and retract with the movement of a dog. The leash can also be locked at a desired length. Though these are commonly used by pet owners, many pet professionals caution against their use, as they can be hazardous for both the pet owner and the dog.

T

Target stick: A long wand that can expand or retract as needed, with a ball on one end that the dog is trained to touch with a body part, commonly his mouth or nose. Some target sticks have a built-in clicker. A wooden spoon can be used in place of a target stick.

Tightening harness: Harness with a limited tightening feature, either on the back or the chest, where the leash clips on. The harness will tighten to a fixed degree if the dog pulls, and release when the leash is loose. This can offer the pet owner more control over pulling without causing sharp pain to the dog, as choke or prong collars can do.

Training pouch, treat pouch: Pouch that holds treats and clips to a belt, pocket or waistband, or has a fanny pack-style band that wraps around the waist. Larger training pouches can also hold other necessities, such as keys, a cellphone or waste bags.

Treat stations: Areas around the home where treats are stored to make rewarding good behavior easier. Treat stations provide an alternative to carrying treats all the time. Concealing the treat containers keeps the dog on his best behavior, as he does not know when or where he might be rewarded.

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Keep Your Dog Focused During Training

Mikkel Becker — Wed, 21 Sep 2022 18:30:38 +0000

One of the greatest challenges of dog training is keeping the pooch focused on the lesson — and on the person in charge. The good news is that for dogs, focus and joy frequently coincide: The more fun your dog has while training, the more likely he will remain focused on you.

Here are five simple ways to build your dog’s focus during training — and have fun while you’re doing it!

A Happy Dog Is a Focused Dog

1. Emphasize the positive. Reward-based training builds your dog’s confidence by offering positive reinforcement for the behaviors he does right, rather than punishing him when he makes a mistake. In the same way, clicker training can be fun for your dog because it teaches him to think and to try out various behaviors to achieve a click and treat.

2. Work at the right pace. Look for ways to structure your training so that your dog remains successful — and focused — the majority of the time. I use a five-trial ratio: If a dog can succeed at a desired behavior three out of five times, then he should continue at that pace. If he is only doing the behavior once or twice in every five trials, it might be time to back off and start over. If he is able to do the desired behavior four or five times out of five, it’s time to make training more difficult.

3. Add distractions early. Once a dog has mastered a behavior, incorporate distractions before adding other requirements, like performing the behavior for long periods of time or at a distance. For instance, when training stay, first teach the stay, and then add distractions with increasing intensity as long as the dog remains successful. Once he is able to deal with the distractions, then add additional challenges, like distance work.

4. Vary the reward. It’s important to reward your dog for his successes; a rate of 10 treats per minute will help keep your dog on task. Frequently vary the type of treats you offer, to make things interesting. Nonfood rewards should also be varied; for example, alternate toys to keep play exciting. Incorporating chase and fast movements into your dog’s training also holds his attention — you become the squirrel, which gives you a better chance of competing with distractions in the environment.

5. Keep training short. Your dog will find it easier to stay focused if you train with several short sessions throughout the day, rather than one long session. Training can last anywhere from one minute to 10 minutes, depending on the dog. End your training exercises while your dog is still interested in what you’re teaching him.

One last tip: Be sure that you keep yourself focused during training sessions. Give your dog your full attention and be ready to notice and reward the good choices your pet makes. Remove distractions like TVs, phones and other people while you’re training. Being fully present can help strengthen the bond you share with your dog — and that’s the most important part of any training session.

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Keep Your Dog Motivated During Training

Mikkel Becker — Wed, 21 Sep 2022 18:30:38 +0000

Q. I’ve noticed that in a training session my dog doesn’t seem to get what I am teaching him, but then a day or so later he will have it down perfectly. Can a dog learn something but not perform it right away? How is that possible?

A. Animals are learning all the time, but their mastery of new information is not always immediately evident. This can be caused by a variety of factors: Your dog may not be getting the right rewards, he may need more rest, or he may be tired at the end of your training sessions.

Motivate With Rewards

In some cases, an animal may learn a behavior but not display it right away. Later, the behavior may occur in response to the right incentive. This is called latent learning.

Latent learning was first seen in a 1933 study of rats. Rats who were amply and frequently rewarded easily learned to navigate a maze fairly easily; those who were not rewarded took more time to get through the maze. But rats who were denied a reward early on and then offered one later in the process suddenly seemed to master the maze; those rats initially took as long as the unrewarded rats to get through the maze, but once there was a reward waiting, they completed the maze at the same pace as the group that had been rewarded all along. They clearly knew how to do the maze, they were just waiting for the right reward.

Your dog may not be exhibiting the behaviors you are teaching him in training sessions simply because he’s holding out for a better reward — or any reward at all.

Sleep and Treats

Another aspect of learning, for humans and canines, is sleep. Sleep helps animals process and consolidate information acquired during the day. After sleeping, animals may return to training better able to demonstrate previously learned behaviors and process new information. Your dog may literally need to sleep on what you’re teaching him in order to master the new behavior.

It is also possible that your dog is more motivated to do as you ask at the beginning of a training session, rather than at the end — which is when you are most likely to return to the behaviors you were trying to teach at the end of the last session. In each of these cases, your dog will appear to suddenly be able to do something he was unable to do the last time you worked with him.

There are other possible explanations for your dog’s delay in exhibiting a new behavior. Sometimes dogs get frustrated when training progresses too fast; in this case, a dog may be unsure what is being asked of him, and thus unable to do the right thing. In addition, when a dog goes too long without being rewarded, he may give up engaging with the training. If you think this is the issue, go back to an easier step in the training and increase the frequency of rewards — this frequently solves the problem.

Simple Training Tips

Dogs have a limited focus when they are training. To help your dog stay on task, keep training sessions short. An optimal training session is between one and five minutes long, with 10 minutes as the absolute maximum.

Dogs also have a limited ability to delay gratification. It is important to limit the periods during training where your dog must demonstrate self-control. This can include behaviors like wait, leave it and stay.

Finally, keep those rewards coming! High-value food and toy rewards doled out frequently between exercises keeps canines enthusiastically invested in training.

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Top Five Must-Have Dog Training Tools

Mikkel Becker — Wed, 21 Sep 2022 18:29:48 +0000

Investing in the right equipment can make it easier to train your dog. The following five must-have tools can help make training your dog a breeze.

1. Treat pouch. A treat container makes it easier to access treats while keeping hold of the leash and clicker. Some treat pouches clip onto your belt or the leash, but the version I like is the Terry Ryan Training Pouch by Premier, which looks like a fanny pack and has an easy-open top that allows you to quickly grab a treat but prevents your hungry dog from helping himself to what's inside.

2. Target stick. Whether you simply use a wooden spoon or invest in a fancy expandable target stick with a built-in clicker, a target stick is used to help guide your dog’s body and lead him into position without using physical force or putting a treat in front of his nose. Target sticks can be help teach behaviors ranging from heeling on a leash to loading up in the car.

3. Long line leash. A long leash makes it easy to train your dog to do behaviors at a distance from you while still giving you the ability to control your dog should he try to run away. Long lines serve as a middle ground between training on a short leash and eventually allowing your dog off leash. Long lines are excellent tools for working on coming when called and long-distance stays.

4. Crate. Every dog should be crate trained, even if the crate is not going to be used on a daily basis. Should your dog ever need care at the veterinarian, he should already be accustomed to the crate so that he doesn’t panic when confined. Crates also offer an easy way to travel with your pet; the crate helps to keep him safe on the road and minimize driving distractions. Your dog will learn to associate his crate with rewards and relaxation, and it will become a place to retreat to when he is feeling overwhelmed.

5. Carabiner. These clips enable you to train virtually hands free. Attach a carabiner to the handle of your leash; loop the leash around a small pole or tree and clip with the carabiner to allow the dog to be stationed at an area for training. In my dog training classes, I have eye bolts drilled into the walls; owners can easily clip their dog’s leash to the wall while they train. This keeps the dog from running over to greet other dogs in class, while at the same time allowing owners to focus on their clicker timing, rather than juggling the leash and the treats. If your dog is fairly calm, a carabiner can also be used to clip your leash to a waist treat pouch. Dogs should always remain supervised while using a carabiner and should have plenty of slack in their leash.

There are of course many other items you can use but these will help get your training off to the right start.

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Training Your Dog? Why Rewards Work Better Than Punishment

Mikkel Becker — Wed, 21 Sep 2022 18:29:45 +0000

Reward-based training has been demonstrated to be effective both in the trenches with trainers and — more important — in the realm of science. Scientists Ivan Pavlov and B. F. Skinner made famous the benefit of using rewards and positive associations to change both behavior and emotion in an animal.

Pavlov found that, over time, animals make associations with certain stimuli that did not elicit a response originally. In Pavlov’s famous dog experiment, the sound of a dinner bell could start a dog’s salivation response, because the dog had learned through previous experience to associate this cue with food. This approach is called classical conditioning.

Marrying Classical Conditioning and Operant Conditioning

Skinner’s experiments explored ways to get animals to repeat or avoid behaviors depending on the consequence of that behavior; for example, he taught lab rats that pulling a lever resulted in a treat appearing in front of them. This approach is called operant conditioning. Classical conditioning and operant conditioning can be combined to train dogs with scientifically sound methods using rewards.

Classical conditioning affects behavior by changing the underlying stimulus associated with a natural response, while operant conditioning rewards a desired behavior, increasing the chances that the behavior will occur again in the future. These two approaches can both be used in a system of positive reinforcement. By pairing rewards and positive consequences with a stimulus, such as giving high-value treats to a dog every time he sees another dog he was once unsure of, a trainer can change the dog’s response from fear or aggression to joyful anticipation each time he sees that particular dog. This change in stimulus then causes the desired behavior change in the dog — say, from barking at the other dog to sitting peacefully at his owner’s side.

Why Punishment Is More of a Problem Than a Solution

Science shows that in order to effectively change behavior, there has to be some motivation for the change. Punishment is often a motivator of choice for more traditional trainers. Unfortunately, using punishment most often only rewards the punisher, because it’s an outlet for frustration. Punishment can quickly get out of hand — there is a fine line between punishment and abuse.

Punishment will not change your pet’s behavior in the desired way. Often the animal doesn’t understand what he is being punished for, and will associate other things with the punishment than what is intended. This can hinder the bond between pet and person, as the owner is perceived by the dog as someone who is “unsafe.” As a result, the dog will be intimidated by and afraid of the owner.

When dogs are punished, they also begin to associate certain situations with something they dislike; in this situation, a dog may show increased aggression. This can be seen in dogs who are jerked on their prong collar when they strain towards another dog on a walk; eventually, the dog begins to escalate his reaction to barking and lunging when he sees another dog, because the sight of another dog means he is going to be punished.

Dogs that are punished may temporarily inhibit their behavior in order to avoid punishment, but they don’t learn a better behavior to take the unwanted behavior’s place. In the long run, either the old behavior comes back again later or other unwanted behaviors take its place. In order to change a dog’s behavior using the punishment model, the punishment needs to increases in intensity with time, because dogs grow desensitized to it. Dogs who have been trained using punishment methods have also been shown to have increased aggression and a higher tendency to bite, which can make them a danger to children or unfamiliar adults.

Why Positive Reinforcement Is Preferable

Punishment is not a method that can be used by the entire family; it carries great risk for both the family and the pet. Positive reinforcement training, on the other hand, is something the entire family can be involved in, from young children to the elderly. Using rewards doesn’t require the use of force; it simply requires creativity. Choose the behavior you want to reinforce and the unwanted behavior you want it to replace, such as getting your dog to lie on a mat instead of begging at the table, and use rewards to get your dog to display the acceptable behavior. This will increase the chances of the desirable behavior recurring, while the unwanted behavior stops.

With reward-based training, you will replace the fear and inhibition taught with punishment training to a demeanor of confidence and joy. Reward-based training is scientifically sound for lasting behavior change and provides a common language between pet and person that deepens the human-animal bond.

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